Home,garden and lawn maintenance

Worm Composting and what you will need

2010-06-08T02:37:00.000-07:00

Worm composting is a way of transforming our food scraps and organic waste into a nutrient rich fertilizer and concentrated soil conditioner. It goes by many names such as; vermiculture, vermicompost, vermicast, worm hummus, worm manure and worm castings. Worm composting is a rewarding method of composting that benefits plants, lawns, gardens, our environment and US (even the worms reap the benefits)!!

There are specific worms that are used for worm composting. The most effective worms are scientifically known as Eisenia foetidaie and Lumbricus rubellus, commonly called Red Wigglers or Red Earthworms. Another type of worm that can be used but doesn’t come as highly recommended, is the European Night Crawler (Eisenia hortensis). This worm isn’t as effective as the Red Wiggler. It’s good at recycling coarse fibrous material like cardboard, but is much slower than the Wiggler. Night Crawlers are better suited for use as fishing bait. Not just any old worm will do.
The process of worm composting takes place in a bin where a healthy environment must be established in order for the worms to successfully transform food waste and organic matter into fertilizer. Proper living conditions must be maintained to ensure the worms survival and obtain the highest quality of fertilizer possible. Not only should the worms survive, they should thrive. These conditions include climate control, adequate air flow, sufficient moisture and a wide variety of food.

Worms naturally convert food waste into simple plant nutrients. This organic fertilizer, rich in phosphorus and nitrogen, is produced much faster than most traditional composting methods. When time is of the essence, the worm’s ability to convert food scraps into compost is a very valuable feature. This compost is also super concentrated, so it should be used sparingly. A little will go a long way which makes storage for a later date quite convenient.

Worm composting can be done inside or outside, which gives you more options than any other traditional composting methods do. Since worm composting can be done indoors, it’s possible to produce compost all year round. Being limited to the outdoors forces this process to take place within the boundaries of the seasons. Also, composting is no longer limited to people with property or backyards. Apartment dwellers can use this method of composting too. Well, why would an apartment dweller even think about composting? They obviously don’t have a yard or a garden and, generally speaking, apartments aren’t necessarily spacious enough to engage in an extra curricular activity such as composting.

There is no requirement to have a lawn or a garden to have an interest in composting. People living in apartments may have houseplants that would benefit from being fertilized. Even those without houseplants may be environmentally conscious and recognize the benefits of composting for the sheer purpose of recycling. As far as having the space for composting, this method is self-contained and compact. It doesn’t require much space at all; 8”-16” deep and 1-2 sq. ft. surface area.

The concept of composting indoors raises the concern of odor. Worm composting is virtually odorless if done properly. To prevent odor, the compost bin should be maintained weekly, which is pretty low maintenance. Maintenance for odor control is simply not overloading the bin with food, not allowing food to sit too long, making sure there is proper ventilation and keeping the drain holes in the bottom open and unclogged so the bin’s environment doesn’t get too wet.

Worm composting is very affordable. It is entirely possible to use this composting method and not spend a penny, however, purchasing worms is probably worth eliminating the hassle of actually finding enough of them to get your compost started. The only other purchase you may decide to make would be the bin used to house your worms, bedding and compost, however, it is not necessary to purchase a bin. In fact, besides being economical, it’s earth friendly to use a container you already have and recycle it. Essentially, worm composting is recycling.

There also is no need for any heavy lifting, even when moving indoor compost bins outside. The weight of the bin will vary depending on its size and the amount of food, compost, bedding and worms it contains. This can easily be controlled by the amount of waste deposited in the bin, and consistent awareness of its contents. Awareness of its contents will allow you to know when the bin has reached its weight capacity in accordance with the amount you’re limited to lifting.

Many of these benefits are what make it feasible for the elderly and disabled to successfully maintain a compost bin. It’s not only safe for children to participate in worm composting, but it should be encouraged. It would make for an excellent science project as well instill values and teach lessons about recycling, caring for our planet and nurturing plant life.

Worm composting can help our planet heal by reducing the amount of waste that goes into landfills. Sadly, too many of us have been conditioned to ‘throw away’ whatever we don’t use without even giving it a second thought. It’s become acceptable. In fact, we’re considered to be a ‘pack rat’ if we don’t get rid of things we aren’t using. This mentality has led to the predicament we’re in now-running out of room for our garbage. The truth is that so much of our ‘garbage’ isn’t even garbage! The old saying that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure is true…even for table scraps. If the average household has 3 lbs. of food waste a week, and it’s getting thrown in the trash, that household is adding 156 lbs. a year to a landfill. Not to mention 156 lbs. being dragged to the curb, 156 lbs. being lifted and tossed by the garbage man, and 156 lbs being hauled to the dump by a gas guzzling truck. Any way you slice it, it’s just a huge waste of energy.

One of the largest benefactors in worm composting are the recipients of the fertilizer…the plants, the lawns and the gardens! Houseplants will give back. Being a natural air filter and bringing a room or a window to life, they are a joy to care for. It isn’t uncommon to kill a houseplant when using a liquid fertilizer. Chances are that the fertilizer isn’t diluted properly, delivering unknown amounts of concentrated fertilizer to the soil which in turn can easily shock and/or burn the roots. When using worm compost, it’s applied by sparingly sprinkling it in a thin layer on the top of the soil, not touching the plant stems. Every time you water your plants, they get a treat. The nutrients from the compost are evenly distributed throughout the soil and the difference is that the roots of the plant don’t get burned or shocked.

The compost is used as a soil conditioner for lawns. For lawn application you simply scatter the compost over the lawn. Remember that it is concentrated and a little goes a long way. Your lawn will thank you by showing off for the neighbors. Unless your neighbor is doing the same thing, the grass won’t be greener on the other side.

The garden will most definitely be thanking you in its own way, depending on what kind of garden it is. Your flower garden will be showing off right along with your lawn. Blooms will be vibrant, casting a spell on your eyes and your nose. Nature’s magic. Sunflowers will develop an ego, believing they can touch the sun. Morning glories will know they are the glory of the morning. Tulips may even believe they have two lips and try to kiss you. But seriously, your flowers will thrive. Your veggie garden will be making you salads. Don’t be surprised if your veggies are bigger, if their pigment is deeper or if they just can’t stop producing edibles! Little do they know that they are contributing to the next batch of compost.
For worm composting, we recommend the Worm Factory 360. Composting with worms allows you to turn kitchen scraps, paper waste and cardboard into nutrient rich soil for your plants. The Worm Factory 360 composting system takes the effort out of composting.

With a thermo siphon air flow design, the Worm Factory 360 increases the composting speed. Air enters on all four sides of the base exposing the bottom to a free flow of fresh air. Compost creates heat and gases that rise through the system and exit out the 4 sides of the lid. By using worms and this thermo siphon design you can now produce compost much faster than traditional composting methods. Master Gardeners agree, worm castings are one of the richest forms of fertilizers available.

The Worm Factory 360 can be used indoors or outdoors allowing year round production. Now composting is no longer limited to backyards. The Worm Factory 360 is odorless making it great for apartments, kitchens, garages, porches and more.

Each tray is 16X16X5 and is made from recycled plastics. Four trays normally provides enough room for the kitchen waste of a family of 4. Each tray averages about 12 pounds when full of compost.

Mastergardening.com has a large variety of worm composters, garden composters and aeration composters. Free Shipping over $100.

Use worms to recycle your waste, create quality compost and create a more sustainable lifestyle. Made in the USA with high quality food grade recycled plastics. 20 Year manufacturers repair or replace warranty.

How It Works: Simply add worms and your organic waste to the bottom tray. The worms will start processing the food. Once the bottom tray is filled with waste add another tray. The worms migrate upward to the newest food source leaving the bottom tray full of nutrient rich compost.

As waste is broken down, moisture filters through the system, taking nutrient rich particles with it. You can drain organic liquid fertilizer right from the spigot.

Mastergardening.com has a large variety of worm composters, garden composters and aeration composters. Free Shipping over $100.

Set up organic gardening soil

2010-04-07T01:25:00.000-07:00

Organic gardening is taking the world by storm. Allotmenteers are doing it, home growers are doing it, even farmers are doing it. What are the key principles of growing organic vegetables – and is it a feasible method for the small-scale, home grower?

Organic Soil Improvers

Before planting anything, soil should be improved – and if you’re growing organically, this means using natural means to do so. Chemical fertilisers and pellets are forbidden in organic growing. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to give your soil an organic boost.

Make your own Compost The quickest and easiest way to improve your soil is by digging in loads of home-made compost. To be strictly organic, your compost should be made from organic vegetable peelings, chemical-free grass clippings, and organic egg shells. Wood ash and shredded tree prunings make good additions. In practice, many gardeners use a blend of non-organic and organic vegetable peelings and grass cuttings; this ‘in-conversion’ technique will start you off until the time when you’re fully organic. When the cycle is complete, you’ll be recycling your own organic vegetables into compost.

Speedy Compost from a Wormery Wormeries are hugely popular among organic gardeners. The worms act as little manual labourers, transforming your kitchen waste into friable compost much more quickly than if you were using an ordinary compost bin. You can buy attractive wormeries that look like painted beehives – or you can make your own, layering up newspaper-lined crates so that the worms can work through the waste to create compost and liquid feed (make sure you have a hole to drip off this liquid). For a guide to making your own wormery, check out Joy Larkcom’s ‘Grow Your Own Vegetables’.

Using Green Manures Green manures can be sown wherever there is a patch of ground that will empty for a few months. They’re grown to be dug into the soil, locking in nitrogen; until that point, they are useful for smothering weeds and protecting the soil from winter weather. Green manures come in three types: leafy manures, such as mustard, rape and fodder radish; legumes, such as clover, alfalfa, field peas, and common vetch; and fibrous-rooted crops, including grazing rye. You can sow green manures from spring to autumn. Your choice of manure depends on your soil type, so it can be a good idea to try several and find out which suit your type and climate best.

Natural Pest Control

There are a number of methods of deterring pests you’re your organic vegetable plot. Traps, copper tape, ground coffee, and manually picking-off are all quite effective against slugs and snails. Biological pest control is effective against many kinds of pests, including red spider mite, slugs, snails and caterpillars. See our article on permitted Pesticides for more details.

Companion planting is also a good way to encourage the right sorts of insect to your organic vegetable patch. Certain plants are appealing to pollinating insects – and obstructive to others. Planting marigolds beneath your tomatoes is a well-known technique (thought to repel black and greenfly). Lesser-known companions are nasturtiums for brassicas (giving the caterpillars a more appealing alternative), garlic for roses (to deter aphids) and leeks for carrots (creating a strong smell to confuse the carrot fly

How much mulch do I need for my garden

2010-04-05T09:44:00.000-07:00

Knowing how much mulch or amendment to purchase for your garden is always a bit of a guess, but you can make it an educated one by using these two measurements.

•The square footage of your garden

•The desired depth, in inches, of mulch or amendment

Measure the Area of Your Garden

Squares and Rectangles: Multiply width by length

Triangles: Measure the two sides that meet at a right angle. Multiply the length of one side by 1/2 the length of the other side. It doesn’t matter which is which.

Circles: Measure the circle’s radius (½ way across the center of the circle). Multiply the radius by itself. Then multiply that number by 3.14, to get the circle's area. [A circle's area equals (pi (3.14) multiplied by the radius squared).]

Curves and irregular shapes: Weave a rope, hose or extension cord along the borders and then straighten them out to create a more regular shape. Then use one of the formulas above. You may need to break the garden into smaller sections and add them together.

Adding Amendments to New Gardens

If you are starting a new garden, you will want to add amendments to the entire area of the garden. Use the actual square footage for your calculations below.

Mulching or Amending an Existing Garden

Once you know the total square footage of your garden, approximate the percentage of the garden that is not occupied by plants. (Ex. 1/8, 1/4...) Multiply the actual square footage by the percentage not occupied by plants. The resulting square footage is the number you will use for your calculations below.

Example

•Actual square footage = 800 sq. ft.

•Area not occupied by plants = 1/4

•800 x 1/4 (.25) = 200 sq. feet

Estimating Mulch Sold by the Cubic Yard

1.Decide how deep you want your mulch (2", 3"...)

2.Use the chart below and select the number of inches of coverage

3.Look across to the corresponding number under "Materials Sold by Cubic Yard"

4.Divide the square footage of your garden by the number from the chart.

Example:

•Your garden has an area of 200 sq. ft. and you want 4 inches of mulch.

•The corresponding number on the chart for 4 inches of mulch is 80.

•Divide your sq. footage (200 sq. ft.) by 80.

•200 divided by 80 = 2.5

You would need 2 ½ cubic yards of mulch to cover a 200 sq. ft. garden with 4 inches of mulch.

Estimating Mulch Sold Mulch by the Bag

Bagged mulch is sold by either weight or cubic volume.

•There are 27 cu ft in a cubic yard.

•The average 40 lb. bag of mulch is approximatly equal to 1 cubic foot.

So whether you are buying 1 cubic foot bags or 40 pound bags, the math is the same: Multiply the number of cubic yards you need by 27.

Example:

In our example above, we needed 2.5 cubic yards:

...multiply the number of cubic yards you need (2.5) by 27

2.5 x 27 = 67.5 bags of cubic foot or 40 pound bags of mulch

Note: If you are purchasing mulch in 2 cubic foot bags, you would multiple by 13.5. (2.5 x 13.5 = 33.75)

Get you plants ready for Fall, Winter

2009-09-08T19:21:00.000-07:00

Getting your plants ready for Fall, winter, gardeners welcome the cooler temperatures and perfect planting season. Perennials, trees and shrubs are best planted now: They can spend the winter establishing strong, healthy roots before diverting their energy to spring leafing and flowering. There's plenty you can do:

Perennials
Dig up, dig in and divide. Roll up your sleeves and think bright thoughts as you plant bulbs for spring flowering. Be sure to give any newcomers a good share of water. Starting now and over the next couple of months, once soil has cooled to less than 60 degrees, plant the bulbs of spring bloomers such as crocuses, anemones, daffodils, hyacinths and tulips in well-drained soil, about three times deeper than the diameter of the bulbs.

* For an abundant tulip display, place 10 to 20 bulbs in a hole one foot in diameter; plant so that the bulbs aren't touching.
* Irises and other early-blooming perennials still can be divided this month. Give them plenty of water after replanting.
* Dig up and divide or transplant crowded perennials.
* For swatches of fall color, plant mums, winter pansies, and flowering kale and cabbage.
* Take cuttings from geraniums, two to four inches, for indoor winter flowering.
* Plant perennials from seed by scattering them in an open bed or in individual rows. In the spring, the seedlings can be moved to more permanent locations.

Trees and shrubs
Fall is an ideal time to shop for and plant new trees and shrubs. They'll have a chance to establish roots over the winter, and at nurseries you'll see the beginnings of true fall colors.

* In many areas, this is the best month for planting evergreen trees and heathers.
* Choose trees and shrubs with edible berries to provide meals for wildlife, or select for bright splashes of fall foliage.
* Reduce watering for established shrubs and trees so they can harden off in preparation for winter.
* Watch fruit trees for signs of mildew.
* Take cuttings from roses.

Lawn care
With just a little bit of effort, you can overhaul your lawn's health this month to help it thrive in the fall, winter and spring.

* If September is rainy, begin raking leaves as they fall and grass clippings as you mow; otherwise they'll form mucky hide-outs for pests.
* Sod or seed new lawn areas.
* Overseed bare patches in an established lawn. Your grass will be more lush, and moss and weeds won't have as much room to take over.
* If your lawn doesn't need thatching, over the next couple of months you can apply a fall or winter fertilizer to encourage nice green grass and healthy root development.
* If needed, thatch now, followed by fertilizing and overseeding.

Pest control
Our old slug friends are starting to lay new eggs right about now. Nip 'em in the bud.

Check the edges of your lawn and underneath sticks and stones for signs of eggs. They come in nearly translucent clusters of 50 or so, with each egg about the size of a dried pea.

Maintenance
After completing these simple garden tasks, you'll still have time to enjoy your weekend.

* Catch weeds now, before they flower. If their seeds have a chance to spread, it means more time on your hands and knees in the future.
* Remove spent annuals and put their husks in the compost, or use them as mulch for overwintering plants.

Harvesting
Over ripening is a September hazard, so check fruits and vegetables regularly. Be sure to harvest them if they look, feel and/or taste ripe and ready.

* Pick tomatoes if the weather is cooling down, and let them finish ripening indoors.
* You can now harvest carrots, corn and potatoes. The root vegetables can be harvested for months to come, but corn isn't as forgiving of cold.
* Raid those fruit trees: Pick pears, plums and apples now.

Houseplants
Bring houseplants home for the holidays — indoors, that is — and start preparing holiday plants for best health and bright color in December.

* If you've been keeping houseplants outdoors, bring them inside before cool fall nights do any damage. Geraniums and other tender plants also may be moved indoors now.
* Be sure to place houseplants away from open drafts as the weather cools. And do tender plants a favor: Don't expose them to direct sunlight — especially through frosted glass, which serves as a magnifier.
* Starting about mid month, the time is ripe for "seasoning" poinsettias and Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus'. Give them a daily dose of 10 hours of bright daylight or four hours of direct sun, plus 14 hours of night darkness. Cactus' need a cool environment of 50 to 60 degrees, while poinsettias prefer a warmer 65 to 72 degrees.

How to make your own compost for your garden or lawn

2009-07-29T13:17:00.000-07:00

Easy Compost Pile
Many think composting is difficult and unnecessary; after all, there is fertilizer and it is "right out of the bag!" Well avid believers in composting, can tell you the differences and it will be a full list. Let us just settle for the main three reasons to compost. 1. Think about tomatoes out of the garden versus from the grocer. The taste from composted vegetables and fruits, are much more rich and flavorful. 2. There are 85% more vitamins and nutrients. 3. No chemical additives (which kill nutrients and people). Here is the easy way to know how to compost. Your goal is to build a compost pile, which provides the best possible conditions for the proliferation of those hard working micro herds which will turn your trash into treasure! These are micro sized organisms, which are found in rich soil or other compost piles.
Step 1
So what exactly can be thrown to our wonderful helpers? Anything of living origin can be (composted, but the quality and quantity of the materials you use affect the process and determine the nutrient value of the finished compost. Compost organisms require the correct proportion of carbon for energy and nitrogen for forming protein called the C/N ratio to function efficiently. If the C/N ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down and nitrogen is depleted. Too low a C/N ratio (too much nitrogen) wastes nitrogen by letting it escape into the air, causing unpleasant odors, and into the water, creating pollution problems.
Step 2
The ideal C/N ratio of 25:1 to 30:1 is readily reached by building your pile in alternating layers of high-carbon materials, such as sawdust, and high-nitrogen materials, such as fresh grass clippings. In general, high-carbon materials are brown or yellow and are dry and bulky. High-nitrogen materials tend to be green, moist, and often sloppy. If you find you have an abundance of either high- nitrogen or high-carbon wastes on hand, make the effort to locate ingredients that provide your micro herd with the right balance of nutrients.
Step 3
Most organic materials supply a wide range of the other nutrients needed by compost organisms and plants. The greater the variety of materials you include in your compost, the greater your certainty of creating a nutritionally balanced product. Use additions of mineral-rich materials such as rock phosphate or greensand to tailor the nutrients in your compost to match the needs of your soil and plants.
Step 4
Many new composter’s have found the odor turns them off from the practice. Odor is a sign that you need to adjust your pH. You may use the "instant fix", lime to moderate pH and odors, but it is not the desirable way. Here is why, when you mix manure (found in the best piles) lime causes the release of nitrogen into the atmosphere in the form of ammonia. This reduces the nitrogen that the organisms and plants need. Therefore, you get rot, which causes the odor.
Step 5
As it is the calcium supplied by lime that you are looking for, replace lime use, with additional supplies of crushed eggshells, bone meal, or wood ashes (not "treated" woods-known carcinogens), which also provide potash. Like lime, wood ashes are alkaline and will raise the pH of your compost. Use wood ashes in moderation to avoid high pH levels that inhibit microorganism activity and limit nutrient uptake by some plants.
Step 6
There are some organic materials to avoid when composting. Human and pet feces may carry disease organisms; meat scraps or bones, and fatty materials break down very slowly and attract animals. Some wastes are contaminated with high levels of heavy metals, pesticide residues, or other highly toxic substances. If your composting plan includes industrial waste products, obtain a complete laboratory analysis for possible contaminants before you add such waste products to your pile.
Step 7
All living organisms need water, but too much moisture drives out air, drowns the pile, and washes away nutrients. Good compost is about as damp as a moist sponge. There are several ways to control moisture levels in compost pile. Build your pile on a site that is well drained. If necessary, begin your compost pile with a bottom layer of sand or gravel to make sure the pile never has puddles. Sprinkle each layer with a watering can or garden hose as you construct the pile. The composting process requires water; check the moisture level every few days and, if necessary, add water when you turn your compost. Layer very wet, sloppy materials (fruit wastes, etc.) with absorbent ingredients such as sawdust or shredded dry leaves. Turn your pile to release excess moisture that prevents proper heating. Protect your pile from the weather. Compost in a covered bin, or place a layer of hay or straw or even a tarp over your pile. Shape your pile to work with weather conditions. In humid climates, a pile with a rounded, or convex, top repels excess water; a sunken or concave, top lets the pile collect needed water in dry climates.
Step 8
Living organisms need air to survive. Supplying enough air to all parts of a compost pile to encourage thorough decomposition is perhaps the key to successful composting. Frequent turning is the most straightforward way to do this, but there are other aerating techniques to use in addition to or even in place of turning: Build a base of coarse material such as brush or wood chips under your pile to allow air penetration from below. Shred leaves, hay, and garden debris before composting. Use materials such as paper and grass clippings sparingly, because they tend to form impermeable mats when wet. Insert sticks into the pile when building it, then pull them out later to open air passages. You can also poke holes in the compost with a garden fork or crowbar. Bury perforated drainpipe at intervals in a passive compost pile as an excellent way to improve aeration. Sunflower stalks and straw also conduct air into the pile. However, do not use cornstalks, as they do not hollow out and decay properly. Limit the height and width of the pile to 51 to 6 feet to avoid compression. There is no limit on length.
Step 9
Too large a compost pile interferes with aeration, but a minimum size of 3 feet in each dimension is needed in order for heating to occur. Given the proper C/N ratio, moisture, and aeration, your compost will heat up even in cold winter weather. A hot pile can reach temperatures of 160°F but will produce satisfactory results if it cooks along at about 120°F. Northern composters sometimes insulate their piles with hay bales or leaves to help composting continue throughout the winter.
Step 10
The type of structure used for composting can vary greatly, depending on the materials available, the needs of the gardener, and the climate. A structure is not essential, but can be used you choose to hide your pile. They should be made of wood (non treated), plastic, concrete, bricks, wire, stones, or any durable weatherproof material.

How to build a rain barrel

2009-07-29T13:12:00.000-07:00

Generally a rain barrel consists of three main components: a barrel, a top hole, an upper drain, and a lower drain.

55-Gallon barrel
Finished rain barrel
Skimmer basket
Hose and coupler
Jisgaw cutting the top hole
Installing upper drain
Installing lower drain
Getting Started
Generally a rain barrel consists of three main components: a barrel, a top hole, an upper drain, and a lower drain.
Plastic 55-gallon drums are the recommended type of barrel to use for safely collecting water with minimal leaking. Habitat ReStore the Little Blue River Watershed Coalition and Bridging the Gap recycling centers are currently selling 55-gallon drums for a small fee.If you're having trouble locating the right type of barrel, please contact jtemelcoff@gmail.com for the names of other suppliers.
A top hole should be cut in the top of the barrel for collecting water. Insert a skimmer basket like those found in garden ponds and swimming pools to filter out leaves and other debris. It is important to cover the basket with figerglass window screen to prevent mosquitoes and other disease-carrying insects from entering the barrel.
The top drain is a plastic faucet that should always be left in the "open" position to keep the barrel from overflowing.
The bottom drain ia a plastic faucet that attaches to a hose for watering lawns and gardens. This faucet should be kept in the "closed" position when not in use.
Tools
7/8" spade drill bit
Electric jigsaw
Electric drill
Utility knife
Marker
Supplies
1 - 55-gallon plastic barrel
2 - ¾" plastic faucets
1 - ¾" female coupling
1 - Skimmer basket
1 - Roll of teflon tape
1 - All purpose caulk or plumbing sealant
1 - 5-ft. section of garden hose
4 - Hose couplers
1 - 12" x 12" piece of fiberglass window screen
Top Hole
Use basket to trace template on barrel
Pre-drill small hole using 1" spade bit
Make sure to drill inside the line
Use a jigsaw to cut out hole following the inside line
Upper Drain
Mark holes at least two inches from top of barrel
Use 1" drill bit to drill hole
Screw plastic faucet into hole
Use utility knife as needed to alter hole
Wrap ¾" coupling threads in Teflon tape and caulk and screw onto faucet inside the barrel
Bottom Drain
Mark holes at least two inches from bottom of barrel
Use 1" drill bit to drill hole
Screw plastic faucet into hole. Use utility knife, as needed, to increase hole size
Remove faucet, wrap threads in tape, caulk threads, replace faucet
Caulk area where faucet and barrel meet to reduce leakage
Attaching Hoses
Cut 2' section of hose
Push each end of hose into a hose coupler and tighten screws
Screw 3' section onto top outflow faucet and 2" section to bottom faucet
Final Steps
Build a base to elevate the rain barrel
Adjust downspout to flow into rain barrel

The proper ph for my garden soil

2009-05-20T04:32:00.000-07:00

To find the proper ph levels for your vegetable garden, read the following article. If you have any questions, please post them in the comment section and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

The soil reaction, or measure of acidity or alkalinity, is based on a scale of 1 to 14 and is referred to as pH. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Any values below 7.0 are acid, and any values above 7.0 are alkaline.

The ideal pH values for vegetable garden soils are 6.0 to 6.5. Vegetable plants do not grow well in acid soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 or in alkaline soils with a pH above 7.5. Soil testing is the only way to know the pH of your garden soil. Contact your county Extension office for a container and instructions for taking a soil sample. There is a $6 fee for a complete analysis (pH plus nutrient analysis with lime and fertilizer recommendations) on each sample. The lime recommendation is the single most important piece of information on a soil test report.

In areas with high rainfall like Mississippi, soils are generally acid. However, there are exceptions (particularly in the Delta and Blackland Prairie) that prove the need for soil testing. Of the garden soils analyzed at Mississippi State University’s Soil Testing Laboratory in 1999-2004, 49 percent had a pH of 5.9 or below and needed lime. Twenty-six percent were in the range of 6.0 to 7.0.

The pH of the soil tells you if the soil needs lime. Where it is needed, limestone is the most effective and inexpensive aid available for soil improvement. The soil’s calcium and magnesium levels tell you what form of limestone—dolomitic (magnesium and calcium) or calcitic (calcium)—to apply. An acid soil that tested medium low to very low in magnesium should be limed with dolomitic (high magnesium) lime. An acid soil high in magnesium can be limed with either calcitic limestone or dolomitic limestone.

Acid soil results in poor plant growth, partly because of poor root growth. This means greater susceptibility to drought stress and less efficient use of soil nutrients. Plants growing in acid soil may show deficiency symptoms of several plant nutrients.

Apply lime well ahead of planting (2 to 3 months) to provide time for it to dissolve and change the soil pH.

Apply lime evenly over the entire area and work it into the top 4 or 5 inches of soil. Incomplete mixing may make future tests show a need for more lime, which can result in overliming and poor plant growth. Limestone not only raises the soil pH but improves fertility. Lime also improves the structure of clay soils and makes them easier to work.

Liming is not a once-in-a-lifetime event. Since soils limed to the proper pH return to their acid state with time, soil test every year or two to determine if additional lime is needed. Sandy soils become acid again faster than clay soils.

Factors causing the soil pH to drop are listed below:

Using acid-forming fertilizers.
Leaching of lime from the soil by rain and irrigation water.
Decomposing of organic matter and release of organic acids.

To get a soil sample for testing: (1) Use a spade or trowel to remove a slice of soil 6 inches deep; (2) Get similar sections from other random places in your garden; (3) Put these samples in a pail; (4) Mix soil thoroughly in the pail; (5) Remove about 1 pint of the well-mixed soil and dry it at room temperature; (6) Place dried soil in container. Do not take samples where fertilizer has been spilled or manure has been piled. Do not include debris such as leaves, sticks, or large stones in your sample. Deliver the soil sample to your county Extension office. See Soil Testing - Costs.

Vegetable Tolerance to Acid Soils
Slightly tolerant (ph 6.8 to 6.0)		Moderately tolerant (pH 6.8 to 5.5)		Very tolerant (pH 6.8 to 5.0)
Asparagus Beets Broccoli Cauliflower Chinese Cabbage Lettuce Muskmelons New Zealand Spinach Okra Onions Peanuts Spinach Swiss Chard	.	Bean Brussells Sprouts Carrots Collards Corn Cucumbers Eggplant English Peas Garlic Kale Kohlrabi Lima Bean Parsley Peppers Pumpkins Radishes Rutabagas Soybeans Squash Sunflowers Tomatoes Turnips Having the proper ph levels in your soil is cruicial for a healthy garden	.	Irish Potatoes Sweetpotatoes Watermelons

Vegetable Tolerance to Acid Soils

Slightly tolerant
(ph 6.8 to 6.0)

Moderately tolerant
(pH 6.8 to 5.5)

Very tolerant
(pH 6.8 to 5.0)

Asparagus
Beets
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Chinese Cabbage
Lettuce
Muskmelons
New Zealand Spinach
Okra
Onions
Peanuts
Spinach
Swiss Chard

Bean
Brussells Sprouts
Carrots
Collards
Corn
Cucumbers
Eggplant
English Peas
Garlic
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lima Bean
Parsley
Peppers
Pumpkins
Radishes
Rutabagas
Soybeans
Squash
Sunflowers
Tomatoes
Turnips

Having the proper ph levels in your soil is cruicial for a healthy garden

Irish Potatoes
Sweetpotatoes
Watermelons

Starting a new garden

2009-05-19T17:54:00.000-07:00

If you are planning a new garden this year, then I have some great gardening tips. Your new garden doesn't have to be as big as a farmers garden to enjoy some great vegetables that can be great for canning or just sharing with friends and family.
Here are some starting tips for your new garden. The first thing you need to do is find a good garden supply where you can get all the materials you may need for your new garden. Finding a good gardening supply and gardening equipment is essential to a new garden. Along with a little hard work of course.
That being said, lets get started. The rest of the article is below the links.
Are my tomato plants dying
Is my cantaloupe dying
Slugs and snails in my garden
Grasshoppers in my garden
Common garden disease and pests
Grow the perfect tomato
Grow the perfect pepper
Plan the perfect vegetable garden
A history of herbs
Improve the soil in my yard
Create a water efficient garden
Build a rain barrel for your garden
Garden ideas for your apartment
General help with your garden
Fertilizers, nutrients and nitrogen
Weed and pest control
In general, vegetables require better soil and more water than flowers and shrubs. Vegetables that are not grown in good conditions are often not very tasty or get a watery or bitter taste.
That said we can set up a few vegetable gardening tips, there is absolutely nothing like the taste of well-grown vegetables from your own garden. Home-grown tomatoes, carrots, cucumber and lettuce have a flavor you didn't even know existed when compared with store bought produce.
And you have complete control over what and how you grow. This is where the composting process we discussed earlier becomes of great value. Compost as biological fertilizer improves the soil structure and the overall quality.

Rotate your Crops

Different vegetables have different needs and if grown in the same spot over several seasons will reduce the soil to the point that it will grow nothing. The thing to do is rotate your crops every season. Done correctly, each crop will fertilize the soil for the new type of plant.

When rotating, you should follow a root vegetable of potatoes or carrots with a legume such as peas or beans, then go for the cruciferous family of cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts etc. and from there to tomatoes or corn.

Don't plant tomatoes twice in the same path
Tomatoes especially should not be planted in the same patch twice as nematodes may result. These can be seen as bulbous growths on the roots of the tomato plant. Blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency in tomatoes characterized by a black circle on the blossom end of the tomato. It can be caused by too much dry weather, as calcium in the ground is water-soluble and cannot be absorbed by the plant unless there is adequate water.

Most vegetables require full sun to grow well, but peas, onions, beetroot, spinach and lettuce are five vegetables that will tolerate a little shade. Since they are gross feeders, vegetables don't do well under trees as tree roots use up many of the soils nutrients. However, herbs and flowers can grow happily along with your vegetables and indeed, often protect the other plants from bug attack or disease. This is called companion planting and must be looked into carefully, as certain vegetables do better with specific types of herbs or flowers.

What vegetables do we grow from seed and we do we go for Seedlings

When growing vegetables, they can be planted as seeds or purchased as seedlings.
How to choose
Plants that have large seeds or whose seeds germinate quickly do well grown from seed. These are peas, beans, broad beans, potatoes, corn, spinach and others. Lettuce, carrot and radishes germinate quickly so that even though the seed is fine, they grow easily from seed.

Tomatoes and lettuce are quite easy to grow from seed, yet are frequently purchased as seedlings. Always make sure your seedlings are a deep green and not leggy, wilted or yellow.

We hope to have improved your gardening experience with these vegetable gardening tips, stay tuned, more is to follow. secretively underground until harvest.
In closing on this chapter, let me stress how important it is to find a good garden supply and garden tools and equipment. This will take some of the hardwork out of maintaining your new garden

Downy Mildew

2009-05-17T19:04:00.000-07:00

Rose -- Downy Mildew

Cause: Peronospora sparsa, a fungus-like organism that can be systemic in roses. It overwinters as mycelium in stems, root crowns, and roots or as oospores in leaf debris and stems. Humidity above 85% and cool temperatures favor the disease. Infection usually occurs on young plant parts. Cuttings taken from infected stock plants will carry the disease. Infected stock may or may not show symptoms.

Symptoms: Purplish red to dark brown, irregular spots on leaves. Leaflets may yellow but contain "green island" areas. Major leaf veins often restrict fungal growth such that lesions become angular as they enlarge. A grayish spore mass may be on the leaf underside if humidity persists. However, the diagnostic sporulation of this fungus is not abundant. Defoliation also may occur in extreme cases. Small spots or long purplish areas may form on canes and may kill twigs. Some people may confuse this with black spot or even rust.

Note the reddened areas on the sepals and stem.

Irregular-shaped, purple spots form on the upper leaf surface, while light, gray-brown spore masses form on the underside of the leaf (middle leaflet on right side of this picture).

Cultural control:

Lower humidity in the greenhouse by raising temperatures and venting at key times of day.

Rake leaves and prune out old flowers and stems.Burn or bury them or send them to a landfill.

Take cuttings from plants with no history of the disease.

Scout plants carefully for symptoms of the disease especially the undersides of leaves and any stock plants or plants held over from the previous year.

Although hot water soaks have been effective they have also damaged cuttings. Hot water soaks are not recommended until time and temperature durations have been investigated.

Maintain adequate fertility.

Chemical control: Focus on cultural control methods first. Do not use metalaxyl or mefenoxam-based products (group 4 fungicides) alone; they are not registered, may not offer much control, and encourage resistance to develop. Chemical control tactics help prevent infection but may not be helpful once the disease starts.

Aliette WDG at 2.5 lb/100 gal water. Do not use within 1 wk of copper spray. 12-hr reentry.

Alude at 1.25 to 2.5 pint/100 gal water applied as a foliar spray at 14- to 21-day intervals. 4-hr reentry.

Compass O 50 WDG at 1 to 2 oz/100 gal water. Do not use organosilicate additives. Rotate to a different fungicide with a different mode of action after each application. 12-hr reentry.

Cygnus 50 WG at 3.2 to 6.4 oz/100 gal water plus a non-organosilicone spreader-sticker. Best used before symptoms develop. 12-hr reentry.

Fosphite at 1 to 2 quarts/100 gal water. Do not use copper products within 20 days of treatment and do not use spray adjuvants. 4-hr reentry.

Heritage at 2 to 4 oz/100 gal water plus a non-silicone-based wetter sticker. Heritage can also be used at 1.6 to 8 oz/A for commercial rose production. 4-hr reentry.

Insignia at 4 to 8 oz/100 gal water. Do not use with organosilicate-based adjuvants. Use preventatively only. 12-hr reentry.

Nu-Cop 50 DF at 1 lb/100 gal water. 24-hr reentry.

Segway at 1.5 to 3 fl oz/100 gal water. 12-hr reentry.

Stature SC at 6.12 to 12.25 fl oz/100 gal water. Do not make more than 2 sequential applications. 12-hr reentry.

What is Dodder

2009-05-17T19:02:00.000-07:00

Dodder entwined around field bindweed

Dodder (Cuscuta and Grammica), is a twining yellow or orange plant sometimes tinged with purple or red. Occasionally it is almost white. The stems can be very thin and thread-like or relatively stout (a species characteristic).

Dodder is classified as a member of the Morning-Glory Family (Convolvulaceae) in older references, and as a member of the Dodder Family (Cuscutaceae) in the more recent publications. Welsh et al. reports twelve species of Cuscuta in Utah while Weber (1986) separates this family into two genera with one species in Cuscuta and five species in the genus Grammica. Weber's separation is based on the shape of the stigma.

Dodder parasitizes various kinds of wild and cultivated plants, and is especially destructive to alfalfa, lespedeza, flax, clover and potatoes. Ornamentals attacked included chrysanthemum, dahlia, helenium, Virginia-creeper, trumpet-vine, English ivy and petunias. Dodder is particularly troublesome where alfalfa, clover and onion are grown for seed because dodder seed is difficult to remove from the desired seed crop and can be spread with infested seed. Its water, minerals and carbohydrates are absorbed from the host through haustoria that penetrate the host's tissue. In dodder the haustoria are modified adventitious roots.

Dodder is said (Wilson, et al.) to contain some chlorophyll in the buds, fruits and stems, but the amount of food manufactured in this tissue is of little significance to the survival of the plant.

The flowers are numerous, white, pink or yellowish, small (2 to 4 mm long depending on species), and can be borne in tight balls or in a loose cluster (again depending on species). Flowers normally appear from early June to the end of the growing season. The fruit is about 1/8 th inch in diameter, with thin papery walls and contain 1 to 4 seeds. The seeds are yellow to brown or black, nearly round and have a fine rough surface with one round and two flat sides.

Dodder produces seed that drops to the ground and germinate the next growing season if a suitable host is present. If no suitable host is present, the seed may remain dormant for five years. Smoothseed Alfalfa Dodder ((Cuscuta approximata Bab. Var. urceolata (Kunze) Yuncker) is reported to produce over 16,000 seeds per plant. "The seed viability times range from 20 to over 60 years and germination can be delayed for years. The seeds can travel by water along irrigation ditches. Moist soil and sunlight is required for germination. The seeds can germinate without a host plant, unlike the seeds of most parasitic plants."

Dodder seedlings must attach to a suitable host within a few days of germinating or they die. The young seedling is sensitive to touch and yellowish stem gropes in the air until it makes contact with a plant. The contact is made firm by one or more coils about the stem. If this plant happens to contain foods suitable to the dodder then a secondary stimulus is aroused which causes root-like branches (haustoria) to form and penetrate the stem. The basal part of the parasite soon shrivels away so that no soil connection exists.

Other names of this parasite include love vine, strangleweed, devil's-guts , goldthread, pull-down, devil's-ringlet, hellbine, hairweed, devil's-hair, and hailweed.

Dodder as a vector of disease:

Phytoplasma, the cause of more than 200 so-called yellows diseases (previously thought to be caused by virus) are spread by several different vectors to include leafhoppers and dodder. Dodder has been shown to spread the yellows disease pear decline, aster yellows, tomato big bud, vinca virescence and elm phloem necrosis. In addition, phloem-inhabiting `rickettsialike' bacteria have been found to be present in dodder (Mount and Lacy).

Allowing dodder to spread in a field or garden area is asking for an increase in the plant diseases this parasite is capable of spreading.

Control:

Its wide host range and the long life of its dormant seeds make dodder hard to control and nearly impossible to eradicate. Dodder seed can be spread by irrigation water, in the manures of livestock that have eaten infested alfalfa, or along with the seed of crops that were infested with dodder.

Preemergent herbicides such as DCPA (Dacthal), applied to the soil in the spring prior to seed germination will prevent this pest. Follow label directions! The Dacthal label can be found at http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld4HM005.pdf.

Pulling and destroying dodder infected plants is recommended. Dodder must be destroyed before it produces seeds or infestations will spread. Once established, dodder appears in patches in the field. Cutting the host plant prior to the dodder producing seed helps reduce the quantity of seed for the following year. Planting an infested field with an immune or resistant crop such as cereals, corn, soybeans, velvetbeans or cowpeas assists in control.

The use of a 2,4-D type herbicide or contact herbicide directed at infected hosts and dodder plants is effective in killing established parasitic plants (as well as the host).

damping off diseases

2009-05-17T19:00:00.000-07:00

Damping-off

The single term used to describe underground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due to unknown causes is damping-off . The term actually covers several soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne fungi.

Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani) is a fungal disease which causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. Infection occurs in warm to hot temperatures and moderate moisture levels. The fungi is found in all natural soils and can survive indefinitely. Infected plants often have slightly sunken lesions on the stem at or below the soil line. Transfer of the fungi to the germination room or greenhouse is easily accomplished by using outdoor gardening tools inside or vice versa. The germination room should not be used for mixing potting soils or transplanting seedlings as a general rule.

Pythium Root Rot (Pythium spp.) is similar to Rhizoctonia in that it causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. However, infection occurs in cool, wet, poorly-drained soils, and by overwatering. Infection results in wet odorless rots. When severe, the lower portion of the stem can become slimy and black. Usually, the soft to slimy rotted outer portion of the root can be easily separated from the inner core. Species of Pythium can survive for several years in soil and plant refuse.

Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora spp.) are usually associated with root rots of established plants but are also involved in damping-off. These species enter the root tips and cause a water-soaked brown to black rot similar to Pythium. These fungi survive indefinitely in soil and plant debris.

Black root rot (Thielaviopsis basicola) is a problem of established plants. It does not occur in strongly acid soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. It usually infects the lateral roots where they just emerge from the taproot. The diseased area turns dark brown, and is quite dry. The fungi survive for 10 years or more in soil.

Miscellaneous fungi causing similar symptoms include Sclerotinia (white mold), Sclerotium rolfsii, Macrophomina phaseoli, some species of Botrytis (gray mold), Aphonomyces, Fusarium, Cylindrocladium, and others. Hence the need for the collective term known as damping-off.

Symptoms of Damping-off:

Seeds may be infected as soon as moisture penetrates the seed coat or a bit later as the radicle begins to extend, all of which rot immediately under the soil surface (pre-emergence damping-off). This condition results in a poor, uneven stand of seedlings, often confused with low seed viability. Cotyledons may break the soil surface only to whither and die or healthy looking seedlings may suddenly fall over (post-emergence damping-off). Infection results in lesions at or below the soil line. The seedling will discolor or wilt suddenly, or simply collapse and die. Weak seedlings are especially susceptible to attack by one or more fungi when growing conditions are only slightly unfavorable. Damping-off is easily confused with plant injury caused by insect feeding, excessive fertilization, high levels of soluble salts, excessive heat or cold, excessive or insufficient soil moisture, or chemical toxicity in air or soil.

Above ground symptoms of root rot include stunting, low vigor, or wilting on a warm day. Foliage of such plants may yellow and fall prematurely starting with the oldest leaves. The roots of a diseased plant will have some shade of brown or black and evidence of water-soaking. Healthy roots are fibrous appearing and are usually white or tan in color. These symptoms are easily confused with severe mite, aphid, scale infestations, or root-feeding by nematodes or insect larvae. Environmental factors such as accumulated salts in the soil, insufficient light or nitrogen, potbound roots, cold drafts, etc. can be eliminated only by examination of the roots.

Damping-off diseases can be prevented:

Purchase disease free plants and seeds. Know your supplier. Do not be afraid of fungicidal coatings on seeds which will be direct sown out doors in cold soils, such as corn and peas. Seed borne disease can also be avoided by soaking the seeds for 15 minutes in a bleach soak (one teaspoon per quart of water) prior to sowing.
Use sterile well drained soil mediums. See article on soil mixes. Try to maintain a soil mix pH at the low end of the average scale, i.e. 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root rot than a pH of 7.5. Commercially prepared germination mixes usually have a pH around 5.5. As you water the seed pots and your seedlings with tap water (which in many municipalities is quite alkaline), the pH in your pots gradually increases as does the susceptibility to damping-off diseases. Know the pH of your tap water, and condition it if necessary to maintain a lower pH while the plants are still in the germination room. I prefer the use of vinegar at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of water.
Plants must not have their crowns below the soil line. Seeds must not be covered more than 4 times the thickness of the seed.
Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the bottom only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots to stand in water as excess water cannot drain and the roots will be starved for oxygen bringing all growth to a halt.
Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding of plants. It is important to maintain constant levels of growth through proper lighting and complete control of the growing environment.
Avoid working with plants (taking cuttings or transplanting) when the soil is wet. Do not use water from ditches or drainage ponds or rain barrels in the germination room.
Avoid spreading soil from infested areas or tools which have been used out of doors. Disinfect tools and containers with one part bleach in four parts water or with 70 percent rubbing alcohol (isopropyl).
In the germination room, sow all your seeds on the surface of the media, then cover the seeds to necessary depth with a material which is less likely to harbor fungi than the media itself. Use one or more of the following seed toppings instead of soil mix:
- milled sphagnum moss
- chick grit
- course sand or fine aquarium gravel
- composted hardwood bark (steamed)
In the germination room, mist seedlings in communal pots or flats once or twice per day with water containing a known anti-fungal agent such as:
- Captan (or other approved fungicide) especially if walls or floors are damp, or
- Cheshunt compound, a copper/aluminum formulation, or
- chamomile tea, or
- clove tea, or
- a one-time light dusting of powdered cinnamon on the soil surface, or
- a one-time light dusting of powdered charcoal on the soil surface, or
- if stinging nettle is endemic in your area, make a fermented infusion to use like clove tea. These last five actions are suggested by sufficient anecdotal evidence to prove the existence of a low level of fungicidal activity. I would not hesitate to use them in germination environments which have no history of damping-off diseases.
Rotate plantings on a 2 to 3 year schedule using plants from different families in order to starve out existing pathogens.
Provide constant air movement not tied in with the light timer. Air should move freely 24 hours per day, but not directly aimed at the plants. This helps the seedlings to aspirate, and excess soil moisture to wick. If you do everything else right but do not provide plenty of air movement, you will still get damping-off.

So, what do I do? Answer: all of the above, all of the time.

Damping-off diseases can be controlled:

Fungicides may be applied as a soil drench after planting. They may be incorporated into the soil before planting as a dust. They can be sprayed in mist form on all seedlings as a precaution until they have been transplanted into individual pots. Once transplanted, only those seedlings known to be especially sensitive to damping-off need be misted with fungicide daily until the first or second seed leaves have emerged. The following chemicals are not recommended for use by the average recreational gardener, but may still be available for use (if not yet banned), providing the manufacturer's instructions are followed to the letter.

Captan (sold as Captan) controls most pathogens, but not Rhizoctonia.

Metalaxyl (sold as Subdue or Apron) controls Pythium, Phytophthora, and Aphanomyces.

Iprodione (sold as Chipco) controls most pathogens, but not Pythium, Phytophthora, or Aphanomyces.

Etridiazole and Thiophanate-methyl (sold as Banrot) controls most all pathogens.

PCNB-etridiazole (sold as SA-Terraclor or Super-X) good general purpose fungicide.

PCNB-quintozene (sold as Terraclor, Fungi-clor, or PCNB) controls Rhizoctonia and Sclerotinia species.

Fosetyl-A1 (sold as Aliette) controls Pythium, Phytophthora, & Aphanomyces.

Well, you get the idea. There are too many to list, and they go on and off the market very quickly (mostly because they are very dangerous when used improperly, and some are too dangerous to have been put on the market at all.)

So, what do I use? Answer: Just enough Captan as needed.

The Future of Damping Off Control:

Biocontrol with microbial fungicides is being investigated in several academic labs. Typical targets are those plants being mass-produced in nearby commercial greenhouses. Early results indicate damping-off prevention comparable to that achieved with the use of standard fungicidal drenches like those mentioned above. However, there remain some notable drawbacks in biocontrol of damping-off.

First, microbial fungicides act against only one species of root or stem rot, and must be applied in advance. So, in order to prevent damping-off, you must know in advance which species of Pythium or Rhizoctonia or other fungi is likely to attack your crop. That limits their use to large production facilities.

Second, some formulations of microbial fungicides have been shown to produce substances that are phytotoxic to certain crops.

Finally, small changes in environmental conditions during test periods seem to cause significant differences in test results.

Rose weevil or rose curculio

2009-05-17T18:58:00.000-07:00

The rose curculio or rose weevil is a reddish and black weevil with a distinctive long snout on the head. It is about 1/4 inch (5-6 mm) in body lenght. The snout is used for drilling and feeding on flower buds. Its scientific name is Merhynchites (=Rhynchites) bicolor Fabricius and it is a member of the Order Coleoptera, Family Curculionidae. It occurs throughout the United States. There are several color forms which at various times have been recognized as species or subspecies.

Rose weevil adults on rose buds.

Bud damage to immature buds of roses. Weevils use the buds for feeding and laying their eggs.

Petal damage to opening blooms damaged by the rose weevils

Rose weevils damage to roses in several different ways. First the weevils damage roses by making feeding punctures with their long beaks on rose buds, calyx, and peduncle. Secondly the weevils lay their eggs in the buds and the larvae feed on the petals and receptacle area. If any flowers manage to open, the petals show distinct small holes made by the adults.

The adults drill small round holes deep into the flower buds and hips for feeding and egg-laying. Eggs are usually laid in the hip or ovary and the small white larvae feed on the reproductive parts. The greatest damage to roses is cause when adults feed on flower buds. The adult punctures the floral parts contained inside buds. Later, if the flowers suceed in opeining, these flowral parts are riddled with holes, resulting in ragged , unsightly blossoms. If flower buds are not plentiful, the adult curculio may feed on the tips of new rose shoots, causing the death of terminals. At other times it gouges the stems of buds, causing the bud to wilt and die.

LIFE CYCLE: Adults emerge from the soil in the spring and they look for young, flower buds to feed on and lay their eggs. After a few days the larvae hatch from the eggs and feed on the reproductive parts of the flower buds. The larvae may continue development on buds that remain on the plant and on those that fall to the ground. Fully grown larvae They also feed on rose hips, which are located below the bud. The adults drill holes in the hip or bud for food. Then they turn around and lay there eggs. Since the adult made holes in the buds, the peduncle (stem right below the hip) becomes weak and eventually the buds fall off. The larva emerges from the fallen rose bud and then burrows into the soil where it hibernates (overwinters). In late winter or early spring depending on the soil temperature, the larva turns into a pupa and after a few days, the adult emerge from the pupa and from the soil to start the life cycle over again. There is only one generation per year.

CONTROL: Scouting or monitoring for the presence of rose weevils is very important for adequate control. Rose weevils start to damage roses at the first sight of bud formation and they tend to prefer certain roses more than others. Keeping notes on varietal preference is important for successful scouting the and control of the weevils early before they cause widespread damage on the roses. In the absence of buds on preferred varieties, the weevils will feed on growing tips.

Regular handpicking of the adult weevils and removal of damaged buds and spent blossoms will prevent continuing damage and will prevent severe populations the following year. Scouting and handpicking should also be done on other hosts such as raspberries and boysenberries, and blackberries. Adult weevils drop readily from plants and feign death when disturbed. In order to take advantage of this behavior, collect the adult curculios with a wide mouth container half full of soapy water. Touch the plant parts where the weevils are feeding and they readily fall down into the soapy water and drown. Rose buds or entire rose bushes can be protected using a netting material that allows sunlight and water to penetrate but excludes insects. Bonnets made with a material called "remay" have been used successfully by rosarians in parts of the United States to exclude insect pests like Japanese beetles, cucumber beetles, and even thrips. Parasitic nematodes can be used against rose weevil larvae provided that larval populations are located prior to spring emergence. Gardens where the infested buds are allowed to fall to the soil would be prime candidates for this biological control method.

Hand picking is a very effective method of dealing with this annoying pest in the early spring months. In my garden near Sacramento, California the weevils usually show up from early April thorough early May.

If the above control methods do not achieve satisfactory control, chemical insecticides may be are considered for larval and adult weevil control. If a larvae are recovered from the soil, insecticides registered for soil use can be used around the rose bushes in order to kill the soil ihnabiting larvae and emerging weevils. Insecticides can also be sprayed at the first sign of the weevils presence in the spring. Insecticides used in the control of beetles on roses and other ornamentas should work on these weevils. Please check the label and read all the precautions on the insecticide label before using any insecticides.

Identify Botrytis blight

2009-05-17T18:56:00.000-07:00

Botrytis blight or gray mold is a fungus disease which infects a wide array of herbaceous annual and perennial plants. There are several species of the fungus Botrytis which can cause blights; the most common is Botrytis cinerea. Botrytis infections are favored by cool, rainy spring and summer weather usually around 15C (60F). Gray mold can be particularly damaging when rainy, drizzly weather continues over several days.

Botrytis cinerea can infect many ornamental plants including: anemone, begonia, calendula, chrysanthemum, dahlia, dogwood, fuchsia, geranium, hawthorn, heather, hydrangea, marigold, pansy, periwinkle, petunia, rose, snapdragon, sunflower, sweet pea, violet, zinnia. Two other damaging Botrytis blight fungi have strict host preferences: Botrytis paeoniae infects peony, and Botrytis tulipae infects tulip causing the disease known as tulip fire.

Among vegetables and fruit, Botrytis cinerea can infect asparagus, bean, beet, carrot, celery, chicory, crucifers, cucurbits, eggplant, endive, grape, lettuce, onion, pepper, potato, raspberry, rhubarb, rutabaga, shallot, strawberry, tomato, turnip, and others. Refer to Table 1 for further details on how botrytis blight affects certain kind of plants.

Symptoms

During wet or humid weather, examine any brown or spotted plant material that develops, and look for masses of silver-gray spores on the dead or dying tissue. These spores are readily liberated, and may appear as a dust coming off of heavily infected plant material. Some species of Botrytis form tiny black resting stuctures called sclerotia that may be evident on dead plant tissue in late summer. Not all species of Botrytis readily form these, so they may not be observed on all plants.

Fig. 1 Rose affected by botrytis blight (provided by the Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic, Cornell University)

Fig. 2 Botrytis on strawberries (provided by the Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic, Cornell University)

Botrytis blight can affect leaves, stems, crowns, flowers, flower buds, seeds, seedlings, bulbs, and just about any other part of a plant with the exception of the roots. Fortunately, this fungus usually prefers certain plant parts on each kind of plant it attacks as outlined in Table 1.

Disease Cycle

On most susceptible plants, new infections may begin in the spring as soon as weather conditions are favorable for disease development. Wet or very humid weather may be highly favorable for the spread of the disease. For some Botrytis spp., sclerotia develop in dead plant tissue and form the overwintering stage of the fungus. Fungal mycelium may also overwinter in woody stem debris. Sclerotia then germinate in the spring, or mycelium grows out of infected debris and conidia (infectious spores) develop. Conidia may be windborne or rainsplashed to cause new infections on susceptible host tissue.

Development of Botrytis gray mold diseases.
(provided by George Agrios, Plant Pathology 4th Edition)

Management Strategies

The best way to manage this disease is by inspection and sanitation. While inspecting plants carry a paper bag for sanitation. Remove faded or blighted flowers, blighted leaves, or entire plants infected at the base and place them in the paper bag so that they may be discarded with the trash or burned. It is best not to do any sanitation when plants are wet with dew or rain since this could spread fungal spores during conditions which favor infection. Likewise avoid overhead watering, syringing, or misting plants especially if Botrytis blight has been troublesome in the past. To promote rapid drying of plants, space them to allow good air circulation.

Remember that this fungus can overwinter as tiny, black sclerotia embedded in dead plant tissue. Therefore, practice sanitation every autumn. Remove plant debris from the garden, cut stalks at or below the ground level, and destroy or discard this plant debris.

Fungicide sprays may also help by protecting plants from infections. Apply these when spring weather is continuously cool and wet or if Botrytis blight has been a problem the previous year. There are many effective fungicides for use against Botrytis spp. in New York State, but products vary greatly depending on the site and type of plant(s) to be treated. Each fungicide is registered for use on different plant(s) or groups of plants so be certain the plant(s) which will be treated are listed on the label. Some fungicides with the active ingredients chlorothalonil, neem oil, Bacillus subitlis, or potassium bicarbonate may be registered to treat some plants in the home landscape. Some of those products are also registered to treat plants in the home orchard or vegetable garden. The label contains information on how to apply the fungicide as well as any precautions so follow the label instructions for all pesticides used.

For commercial applications, please refer to the appropriate commercial pest management guidelines, or contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information on currently registered products.

When Botrytis blight of peony is a problem avoid the use of dense, wet mulches and apply the first fungicide spray in early spring just as the red shoots begin to push up out of the ground. When tulip fire is a problem cut and remove fading flowers before petal fall and cut and remove foliage at ground level when it yellows. Apply the first fungicide spray when leaves are four inches high.

With continuous inspection and careful sanitation gray mold can be effectively managed. Keep an eye out for the silvery-gray mold and/or tiny black sclerotia which are sure signs of this disease.

Table 1:

Leaf Spots or Blights		Cankers or Shoot Blights	Bud Blast or Flower Blights	Fruits or Bulb Rot
Beet	Pansy	Anemone	Chrysanthemum	Bean
Begonia	Peony	Asparagus	Dahlia	Cucurbits
Chicory	Pepper	Calendula	Dogwood	Eggplant
Crucifers	Periwinkle	Chrysanthemum	Geranium	Grape
Cucurbits	Potato	Fuchsia	Hydrangea	Onion
Dogwood	Rhubarb	Geranium	Marigold	Pepper
Eggplant	Rutabaga	Heather	Peony	Raspberry
Endive	Shallot	Hydrangea	Petunia	Strawberry
Geranium	Tomato	Peony	Rose	Tomato
Hawthorn	Tulip	Periwinkle	Sunflower	Tulip
Hydrangea	Turnip	Rose	Sweet Pea
Lettuce	Violet	Snapdragon	Tulip
Onion		Tulip	Zinnia

Controlling Armyworms, Army cutworms

2009-05-17T18:50:00.000-07:00

Armyworm and army cutworm feed on a wide variety of crops in North Dakota. Though the names are similar, these two insects are distinct, feeding at different times of the growing season. Identifying, finding, and recognizing factors where these insects become an economic threat will aid in a successful control program.

Armyworm

Description

The adult armyworm is a light brownish gray moth or "miller" (Figure 1) with a conspicuous white spot about the size of a pinhead on each front wing. When expanded, the wings are about 1� inches across.

Figure 1. Armyworm moth.

Click here for
larger photo (18KB color photo)

Armyworm larvae (Figure 2) are pale green in the early growth stage and dark green in later stages. Full grown larvae are smooth, striped and almost hairless. They grow to a length of 1� to 2 inches. A series of longitudinal stripes on the body are arranged as follows:

a thin, white, broken line down the middle of the black.
a wide, dark, mottled stripe halfway down the side.
a pale orange stripe with white border.
next, a brownish mottled stripe.
slightly above the legs, there is another pale orange stripe with white borders.

Figure 2. Armyworm larva.

Click here for
larger photo (15KB color photo)

Life Cycle

The armyworm does not survive North Dakota winters. Armyworm infestations are due to moth migrations from the south. Heavy infestations in southern states produce large moth numbers that fly or are blown northward on southerly winds. Moth migrations that produce infestations normally occur during early June and July. If weather, egg laying, and food conditions are favorable here, outbreaks can occur. However, armyworm parasites increase rapidly and help prevent outbreaks.

Moths lay eggs at night in folded leaves or under leaf sheaths of small grain plants and other grasses. They prefer to lay eggs in moist, shady areas of lodged, hail, or wind damaged grains or grasses.

Armyworm eggs look like small white beads laid in masses or rows resembling miniature pearls. In eight -10 days, eggs hatch into larvae. Larvae complete feeding in three to four weeks, staying in the area where they hatched until fully grown or until they run out of food. If all food is consumed, worms often move in hordes or "armies," eating and destroying vegetation as they move.

When feeding is complete, larvae move under litter and soil clods, or burrow 2 to 3 inches into the soil, where they make small cells and pupate. About two weeks later, moths emerge from pupal cases, mate, and lay eggs for the next generation. Only one generation is produced in North Dakota during most seasons.

Habits and Damage

The armyworm is primarily a pest of grasses, small grain crops and corn in North Dakota. The insect will also attack alfalfa, beans, clover, flax, millet, and sugarbeets. Feeding and movement occur at night or on cloudy days. During the daytime, armyworms hide under vegetation, loose soil or in soil cracks. Caterpillars consume more and more vegetation as they grow. Since they feed at night and hide during the daytime, armyworms often cause considerable damage before being discovered.

Scouting, Economic Thresholds, and Control is extremely important to detect and control armyworms while they are small and before extensive damage is done. Controlling nearly mature larva that have completed their feeding is a waste of time and money. Late spraying for armyworms is often referred to as "revenge" spraying since the crop damage has been done and no economic benefit is realized.

Initial field scouting for armyworms should be done in field margins, low areas with rank plant growth, and areas where plants have lodged. Indications of armyworm feeding include leaf damage, worm frass (droppings) around the base of plants, and severed leaf material that has fallen to the ground. Look for larvae beneath plant debris around the base of plants and in heads of wheat and barley.

Insecticides may be applied with ground or aerial equipment. Refer to insecticide labels for recommended water volumes to insure thorough, uniform coverage. When armyworms migrate from small grains or grass into corn, flax, beans, or other late crops, spray a couple of swaths ahead of the infestation in the direction of movement to form a barrier strip.

Consider treatment if armyworms are up to 1 inches long, most larvae do not exhibit signs of parasitization (white eggs behind the head or small brown cocoons attached to the body), and leaf feeding or head clipping is evident. If armyworms are more than 1 inches long, control is not likely to provide economic return.

Threshold for Small Grains

Preheading: Treat when four or more worms per square foot are present.

Heading (head clipping): Treat when two or more worms per square foot are present.

Threshold for Corn

Treat when 25 to 30% of the plants have two or more worms or 75% of the plants have one worm.

Migrating Armyworms

Treat a couple of swaths ahead of the infestation in the direction of movement to form a barrier strip.

Insecticides Registered for Controlling Armyworm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Dosage in    Formulated
Insecticide       Lb AI/Acre  Product/Acre  Restrictions on Use
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
permethrin        0.1_0.2                   Do not apply within 30 days of
(corn only)                                 harvest. Apply a minimum of
Ambush 2E   RUP               6.4-12.8     1 gallon of finished spray per
                              fl oz       acre by air and 10 gallons per
Pounce 3.2E RUP              4-8 fl oz     acre by ground equipment.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Asana XL     RUP  0.03-0.05    5.8-9.6      Do not apply within 21 days of
(corn only)                     fl oz       harvest.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carbaryl (Sevin)  1-1.5       rate varies   Do not apply within 21 days of
(wheat and corn)                  by        harvest. Do not make more than two
                            formulation   applications after the boot stage.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ethyl             0.5           8 fl oz     Aerial application only. Do not
parathion 8EC RUP                           apply within 15 days of small
(small grains,                              grains harvest or within 12 days
corn and sorghum)                           of corn and sorghum harvest. Do
                                          not enter treated fields within
                                          3 days after application. Fields
                                          must be posted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lannate LV  RUP   0.225-0.45    12-24       Do not harvest within 7 days or
                              fl oz       feed treated forage within 10 days
                                          of application. Field re-entry
                                          intervals are 2 days (corn) and
                                          1 day (small grains).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lorsban 4E        0.5-1        1-2 pts      Do not apply more than 15 pints by
(corn and                                   postemergence application/season.
sorghum)                                    Do not allow livestock to graze in
                                          treated areas within 14 days or
                                          feed treated corn silage, fodder
                                          or grain to meat or dairy animals
                                          within 35 days after treatment.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Malathion 57EC    1.25          2 pts       Do not harvest for 7 days.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Methyl                                      Aerial application only. Do not
parathion 8EC RUP 0.5          8 fl oz      apply within 15 days of small
(small grains                               grains harvest or 12 days of corn
and corn)                                   harvest. Do not enter treated
                                          fields within 48 hours or
                                          application. Fields must
                                          be posted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Penncap-M RUP     0.5-0.75     2-3 pts      Do not apply within 15 days of
(methyl                                     harvest. Do not enter treated
parathion)                                  fields within 48 hours after
                                          application. Fields must
                                          be posted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warrior RUP       0.02-0.03   2.56-3.84     Do not apply within 21 days (corn)
(corn, sorghum, and             fl oz       or 30 days (sorghum and wheat) of
wheat)                                      harvest. When applying by air,
                                          apply in a minimum of 2 gallons of
                                          water per acre.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RUP - Restricted Use Pesticide

Army Cutworm

Description

The adult army cutworm (Figure 3) has a wingspan of 1� to 1� inch. The forewings are dark gray-brown with a number of distinct markings. The hind wings are light gray-brown with a whitish fringe.

Figure 3. Army cutworm moth.

Army cutworm larvae (Figure 4) attain a length of 1� to 2 inches. They are pale greenish-gray to brown with the back pale-striped and finely mottled white and brown coloration but without prominent marks. Skin texture consists of fine, close-set, irregular granules.

Figure 4. Army cutworm larvae.

(29KB color photo)

Life Cycle

Only one generation of army cutworms is produced annually. Partially grown larvae overwinter in the soil.

Moths emerge from the soil in late June. Moths fly to mountainous areas where they enter a period of inactivity during July and August, hiding under rubbish and soil lumps. From late August to late October, the moths become active and fly back to the plains to lay eggs in soft soil of freshly cultivated weedy fields or newly seeded winter wheat fields. Eggs are laid singly. Each female can lay 1,000 or more eggs. When moisture is adequate in September, eggs hatch in a few days to two weeks and larvae feed for as long as weather permits. Larvae remain in the soil during the day and come out at night to climb up on plants to feed on leaves. Larval development ceases when the soil freezes. Larvae are usually half grown at this time. Fall moisture is necessary for larvae to survive.

Cutworms remain inactive just beneath the surface of loose soil until the following spring. Once the soil has warmed, larvae emerge and start feeding on available vegetation. When larvae mature, they pupate about 2 to 3 inches below the soil surface in late May or early June.

Habits and Damage

The army cutworm is a climbing cutworm that "grazes" on the leaves of its host plants. In the north central plains states, army cutworms are primarily an early season pest of cereal crops, especially winter wheat in the Dakotas and Montana. As with other cutworms, they have a wide host range and can feed on a wide variety of crops, including alfalfa, canola, mustard, and flax. They also feed on garden plants, sugarbeets, various weeds, and grasses.

When the food source is depleted, larvae may move in large masses to new areas, thus the common name "army cutworms." Movements of up to three miles have been recorded. However, these large scale movements are uncommon.

Outbreaks can appear suddenly, often preceded by a year with a dry July and a wet fall. An abundance of moths in June does not necessarily mean a cutworm outbreak the following year. High rainfall in July can reduce moth populations by drowning or covering them with mud. A dry fall, especially during September, reduces overwintering larval populations by delaying hatch or increasing mortality of eggs and newly hatched larvae through desiccation.

Scouting, Economic Thresholds, and Control

As with armyworms, it is extremely important to detect and control army cutworms while they are small and before they cause significant crop losses.

Monitor fields, especially small grain fields, in early spring for signs of small holes in plant leaves or plants with missing leaf tips. Larvae are found under rocks and dirt clods or in the upper 3 to 4 inches of soil. On cloudy days or late afternoons, larvae feed at the base of plants. When scouting fields for cutworm larvae, use a knife or trowel to scrape soil away from plants (including weeds) to find larvae. A screen or sieve can be helpful in separating larvae from soil.

Vigorous small grain plants 5 to 6 inches tall, which have adequate moisture, can withstand at least four larvae per foot of row without loss of yield. If plants are under 4 inches tall and two or more larvae per foot of row are present, consider treatment.

Insecticides Registered for Controlling Army Cutworm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Dosage in    Formulated
Insecticide       Lb AI/Acre  Product/Acre  Restrictions on Use
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
endosulfan        0.5         3EC - 2/3 pt  Do not apply after heads begin to
(small grains)                WP - 1 pound  form. Do not feed treated forage
(Thiodan 3EC,                 WSB - 1 bag   to livestock. Do not make more
WP, or WSB,                  (1 pound unit) than 2 applications per year. For
and Phaser 3EC                              aerial application, see label for
or WSB)                                     recommended volumes and carrier.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warrior   RUP     0.015-0.025   1.92-3.2    Do not apply within 21 days (corn)
(wheat, corn,                    fl oz      or 30 days (sorghum and wheat) of
sunflower, and                              harvest. When applying by air,
sorghum)                                    apply in a minimum of 2 gallons
                                          of water per acre.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RUP - Restricted Use Pesticide

Identify and control Anthracnose disease

2009-05-17T18:44:00.000-07:00

Anthracnose diseases of hardwood trees are widespread throughout the Eastern United States. The most common symptom of these diseases is dead areas or blotches on the leaves. Because of the brown and black, scorched appearance of the leaves, the diseases are sometimes called leaf blight.

The symptoms vary somewhat, depending on the host. Under certain conditions, the whole leaf dies and falls prematurely. On some tree species, the diseases may also damage twigs, shoots, buds, and fruits. Repeated defoliation reduces growth, weakens the tree, and increases its susceptibility to attack by other pests and to winter injury.

These diseases are caused by several closely related fungi, plants that reproduce by means of spores - the fungal equivalent of seeds. Spores spread the disease when moved by wind, rain, or mechanical means from one host to another.

Hosts

Anthracnose fungi attack numerous hardwood species, including ash, basswood, birch, catalpa, elm, hickory, horsechestnut, London planetree, maple, oak, sycamore, tuliptree, and walnut (table 1).

Although anthracnose diseases have been found wherever these trees grow, not all hardwoods are equally affected. The diseases are particularly severe on American sycamore, white oak and other oaks in the white oak group, and black walnut. Sometimes, these species are almost completely defoliated; and on black walnut, nut production is affected. Infections are frequently found on other oak species, including scarlet, black, red, and southern red oaks; but the red oaks appear to be less susceptible than the white oaks. Pin oak, swamp chestnut oak, bur oak, and London planetree are only occasionally infected by the fungi. Symptoms on infected leaves range from tiny dead spots to large circular or irregular dead blotches, depending on the tree species. Dead areas are black, brown, or purple. On sycamore (cover photo) and maple (fig. 1), infected areas are often found along the veins and midrib of the leaf. The dead areas may merge until the whole leaf dies.

Infection in the early spring may turn the leaves black so that they resemble leaves damaged by frost (fig. 2). If they are not killed by the fungi, young leaves may become distorted by the unequal growth in healthy and infected parts. Distorted leaves are common on oaks.


Figure 1. Anthracnose on Norway maple.	Figure 2. Healthy and anthracnose-damaged leaves on sycamore.

When severely infected, trees may lose their leaves. But if defoliation occurs in spring or early summer, a tree will usually produce a second crop of leaves (fig. 3).

Symptoms on most trees are confined to the leaves. On sycamores and oaks, however, the fungi may also affect twigs, buds, and shoots.

Figure 3. Severely infected tree is refoliating.

Symptoms: Sycamores, Oaks

Figure 5. Anthracnose infection along the vein of an oak leaf.

On sycamores, there are four distinct stages of anthracnose: twig blight, bud blight, shoot blight, and leaf blight. These stages often overlap (fig. 4); any one or more stages can be seen during the spring or summer when weather conditions are just right for the development of the disease.

On oaks in the white oak group, symptoms are similar to those on sycamore (fig. 5), but less severe.

Figure 4. Twig, bud, shoot, and leaf blight on sycamore.

Twig blight. Twig blight occurs in the spring before the leaves emerge. After the tips of 1-year-old twigs are killed, small, black fruiting bodies of the fungus soon break through the bark of the dead twigs (fig. 6). Later, cankers-dead areas in the bark-may appear on older branches below the dead twigs (fig. 7). These cankers girdle and kill the branches.

Figure 6. Fungal fruiting bodies break through the bark of a dead sycamore twig.

Figure 7. Canker below dead sycamore branch.

Bud blight. Bud blight occurs at the same time as twig blight. When cankers girdle the individual buds, the buds die before the bud caps begin to break.

Shoot blight. During the shoot blight stage, emerging shoots and new immature leaves suddenly die.

Leaf blight. In the leaf blight stage, both young and mature leaves are infected with spores produced on twigs and branch cankers. Necrotic spots or blotches are found on the leaves, and dark-brown fruiting bodies of the fungus are found on diseased leaf tissue.

Spread of Infection

The fungi that cause anthracnose overwinter on infected debris from the tree or on infected buds and cankered twigs.

In the spring during rainy periods, large numbers of microscopic spores are discharged by the fungi. The spores are windblown or splashed by the rain onto the young, growing leaves of host trees. During wet weather, the spores germinate; and the fungi penetrate the leaves, killing the new leaf tissue.

On some species, the fungi in the infected areas of new leaves produce secondary spores, called summer spores. Wind and splashing rain spread the summer spores from leaf to leaf. The rapid increase of anthracnose in the summer and early fall is caused by these summer spores. Summer spores are common on ash and walnut.

Influence of Weather

The severity of sycamore anthracnose appears to be related to prevailing temperatures during March or early April. Twig, bud, and shoot blight are more severe if the prevailing average daily temperature remains relatively cool during the period - below 70 °F (21 °C). Prolonged warm periods of 2 to 3 days when day temperatures reach 80 °F (27 °C) will prevent the development of the fungus and thereby limit the disease severity.

Anthracnose spores are spread by wind and rain. In addition, the spores need wet weather to germinate and penetrate the leaves. Therefore, anthracnose diseases may be severe in years with long, cool, rainy periods. If the following year is warm and dry, anthracnose may be inconspicuous or absent.

Control

In forest stands, anthracnose is impractical to control: spraying and pruning are far too expensive. However, management practices that allow better air movement and more sunshine, such as thinning, may inhibit the diseases by helping the foliage dry rapidly after a rain. Air circulation should be considered when planting trees susceptible to anthracnose.

On shade and ornamental trees and nursery stock, anthracnose can be controlled by destroying the overwintering fungi in plant materials. Raking leaves and pruning infected twigs and branches reduce the amount of inoculum available. This infected material should be burned or otherwise destroyed.

Anthracnose diseases on high-value trees and nursery stock can also he controlled by applying fungicides in the spring. Benomyl, plus a spreader-sticker applied at bud break, will provide good control. A chemical mixture of hydrated lime, copper sulfate, and water (4-4-50), known as Bordeaux mixture, is registered for use against anthracnose on elm, maple, and sycamore; dodine can be used against anthracnose of sycamore and walnut. Specific recommendations on the use of these fungicides differ with the type of anthracnose and with the locality.

Other management practices include fertilization and planting less susceptible species. The application of a complete fertilizer, such as 12-12-12, will improve the vigor of trees weakened by repeated attacks of anthracnose. Some species are less affected. London planetree is much less susceptible than American sycamore; oaks in the red oak group are generally more resistant than white oaks.

Information

Pesticides are reviewed continuously by the U.S Environmental Protection Agency; persons contemplating their use should ensure that the materials are registered.

Private landowners can get information about anthracnose diseases from a Cooperative Extension agent at their land-grant college, a State agricultural experiment station, a county Extension office, the local State forestry office, or the Forest Pest Management staff, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service.

Leaf Galls

2009-05-17T18:40:00.001-07:00

Leaf galls are a frightening sight, but are not usually as serious as they appear. These bumps and deformations are usually the result of insects or mites feeding on the leaves. The gall itself is the plant’s response to the irritation. It’s not unlike the bump you get when an insect feeds on you, expect the leaf gall is not going to go away.

Despite appearances, the insect is not living in the gall. In fact, it is very likely that once you notice the galls the insects have moved on. Before they do, they can do a lot of cosmetic damage to many plants and in particular trees. Many common trees are susceptible to leaf galls, especially in the spring. Maple, oak, elm, hackberry and others each are favored by a different insect that causes unsightly and intimidating galls. Damage will be greater following a mild winter, since more insects have survived and are hungry. Galls won’t usually kill a tree, but they may cause early leaf drop. A healthy tree will send out new growth and recover.

What Can You Do About Galls?

Since the damage occurred before the gall formed, treatment is rarely recommended. If you have a reoccurring problems, you can spray your tree in early spring, to lessen the severity of the damage. Contact your local extension office for specific

Common garden diseases and pests

2009-05-17T18:31:00.000-07:00

Types of Garden Enemies

THERE are literally thousands of diseases and pests that may appear on the plants in your garden. A few are very important, limiting factors in the continued life or produc- tion of your trees and shrubs, flowers, and vegetables; some are important according to your special garden hobbies; most will have to be ignored as too insignificant for attention in the limited gardening time at your di posal.

The various types of enemies you are likely to encounter are given here in alphabetical order. The diagrammatic sketches and the few examples of specific diseases and pests are to help you in diagnosing and grouping your problems so as to select control measures that will reduce and not enhance them. Meditation on the problem may help. Put yourself in a meditative state, spiritual if you will, and let meditation techniques come to you for dealing with pests. It is more than likely that the particular beetle, caterpillar, or leaf spot worrying you at any particular moment will not be found in this small volume. For that, you will have to consult those encyclopedic tomes of mine, The Gardener's Bug Book and Plant Disease Handbook. And if you live in the East and want a calendar for control operations try The Plant Doctor.

TYPES OF ENEMIES AND EXAMPLES

ANTHRACNOSE DISEASES. Bean, Melon, Sycamore, Oak.
SPOT ANTHRACNOSES. Bramble, Dogwood, Rose.
ANTS. Cornfield, Black Carpenter.
APHIDS. Balsam Twig, Bean, Black Cherry, Cabbage, Crapemyrtle, Currant, Eastern Spruce Gall, Cooley Spruce Gall, Elm Cockscomb, Goldenglow, Green Peach, Ivy, Melon, Norway-maple, Pine Bark, Potato, Root, Rosy Apple, Snowball, Woolly.
ARMYWORMS. Armyworm, Fall Armyworm.
BAGWORMS
BEES. Leafcutter.
BEETLES. Asiatic Garden, Asparagus, Bark, Blister, Colorado Potato, Elm Leaf, Cucumber, Flea, Fuller Rose, Ground (friends), Japanese, Lady (friends), May or June, Mexican Bean, Rose, Tortoise, White- fringed, Willow Leaf.
BIRDS. Sapsuckers.
BLIGHTS. Azalea Flower, Camellia Flower, Bean, Botrytis (Gray mold, Lily, Peony, Tulip), Celery, Fire, Hawthorn Leaf, London Plane, Southern, Tomato.
BORERS. Ash, Bronze Birch, Carpenterworm, Columbine, Dogwood, Dogwood Twig, European Corn, Flatheaded, Apple Tree, Iris, Lilac, Locust, Peach Tree, Rhododendron, Squash Vine, Stalk.
BUGS. Apple Red, Boxelder, Chinch, Lace (Andromeda, Azalea, Hawthorn, Oak, Rhododendron, Sycamore), Plant (Four-lined, Leaf-footed, Phlox, Tarnished, Yucca), Squash, Stink.
CANKERS and DIEBACK. Brown, Common of Rose, Camellia, Bleeding, Crown, Cytospora of Poplar, Spruce.
CATERPILLARS. Budworms, Cankerworms, Corn Earworm, Eastern Tent, Imported Cabbage, Tomato Hornworm.
CHLOROSIS
CICADAS. 17-year Locust.
CLUB ROOT

MITES

THRIPS
CRICKETS. Mole Cricket.
CURCULIOS. Plum, Rose.
CUTWORMS. Black, Variegated.
DAMPING-OFF
DODDER
DOWNY MILDEW
EARWIGS
FLEAHOPPERS
FLIES. Cherry Fruit, Narcissus Bulb.
GALLS. Azalea Leaf, Camellia Leaf, Crown.
GRASSHOPPERS
LEAF BLISTER, LEAF CURL. Oak Leaf Blister, Peach Leaf Curl.
LEAFHOPPERS. Beet, Grape, Potato, Rose and Apple.
LEAF MINERS. Azalea, Birch, Boxwood, Columbine, Holly, Locust, Spinach.

Identify problems with your plants

2009-05-17T18:25:00.000-07:00

Garden Plants and Their Problems

AGAIN we use the alphabet to list some trees, shrubs, vines, flowers, and vegetables rather commonly grown in home gardens; under each is a highly selective list of enemies with suggestions on control. For amplification look back in Chapter II, where you will find all the types but not all the specific pests. In choosing the plants and pests to include in this all-too-brief list, I have tried to give those representative of different parts of the country and those I commonly expect to find in visiting home gardens. There are many other possibilities. Again I refer you to the Gardener's Bug Book and the Plant Disease Handbook as well as to the books given in the Bibliography.

ENEMY	DAMAGE	CONTROL
African Violet
Cyclamen mite	Leaves puckered, thick,	Treat soil with Kapsulate;
	twisted stems.	isolate new plants; space
		pots so leaves do not touch.
Broad mite	Leaves glassy.	Treat soil with Kapsulate;
		isolate new plants; space
		pots so leaves do not touch.
Mealybugs	Soft, white cottony bugs.	Touch with cotton swab
		dipped in alcohol.
Nematodes	Knots in roots, leaves dull,	Discard plant and soil.
	flower stalks aborted.
Petiole rot	Stem soft where touches	Edge pot with paraffin or
	rim of pot due to accumu-	tinfoil.
	lation of salts.
Cold water	Irregular yellow ring spots.	Use water at room tem-
		perature.
Sun	Leaf scorch.	Avoid exposure to full sun
		after cloudy weather.
Ageratum
Whiteflies	Minute, white ""moths,""	Spray or dust with DDT.
	leaves stippled white.
Ailanthus (Tree-of-Heaven)
Cynthia moth	Large green caterpillar de-	Spray in June with lead
	vours leaves.	arsenate.
Ajuga
Crown rot	Plants wilt, turn black; red-	Remove diseased plants
	dish tan seedlike bodies on	and surrounding soil; treat
	white threads.	area with bichloride of
		mercury.
Amaryllis
Narcissus bulb	Large grub inside rotting	Discard bulb; screen plants
fly	bulb.	put outdoors for summer
		with cheesecloth.

What are thrips

2009-05-17T18:24:00.001-07:00

If you notice leaves that appear to shrink and curl up, you may have thrips, tiny little pests that scrape tissue from your flowers and leaves and then drink the plant juices. If you get a lot of thrips in one place, flowers and leaves won't open normally and they'll look twisted or stuck together. You'll also notice small black fecal pellets that thrips deposit when they feed.

Thrips usually appear in May, but in desert areas in can be as early as March. They breed quickly, so as the season progresses, a greater number of thrips will be in force in your garden. They tend to prefer white and lighter colored rose blossoms and gladiolus leaves and flowers.

There are many natural controls for thrips, including ladybird beetles, larvae, predaceous thrips and mites.

If your thrips problem gets too serious, you can try malathion, diazinon, chlorpyrifos, or acephate. For edible plants, try malathion or insecticidal soap.

Slugs and snails in my garden

2009-05-17T18:23:00.002-07:00

Slugs and snails are two of the most aggressive garden pests around - and they always return, no matter what measures you take.

The two creatures are similar; snails have a shell, slugs don't. They attack a range of plants, leaving irregular-shaped holes in leaves. They`re active at night, but will come out and feed in your garden during cooler, wetter days.

Slugs and snails always seem to return, whether it`s from other lots, on new plants or from new soil in container plants you purchase from the nursery, appearing as eggs in tiny round clusters.

To control these pests, you can use metaldehyde or methiocarb in pellets, meal, or emulsion form. But don`t use methiocarb around fruit trees and vegetable plants. And take care if you have dogs - the bait can poison dogs.

You may opt to simply grabbing snails by hand and then get rid of them. The best time is after 10 p.m.

What are mites

2009-05-17T18:23:00.001-07:00

Mites

If little dots or clusters of yellow show up on your otherwise green plants, then you may have unwelcome visitors - mites. Mites look like little tiny specks of color - yellow, red, or green. They are related to the spider, having eight legs.

Because the yellowing of leaves is a common problem, you'll want to test to see if mites are the culprit. To do this, hold a piece of white paper beneath the stipled leaves, then shake the stem. If you do indeed have mites, some will fall onto the paper, appearing as moving specks. Some mites will leave webbing on the underside of leaves.

If mites invade a small plant, try spraying it with water - or water with insecticidal soap - to get rid of the mites. Mites are attracted to dusty leaves, so keep leaves clean. They also prefer plants affected by drought conditions.
Other alternatives to get rid of mites include summer horticultural oils and sulfur.

Grasshoppers in my garden

2009-05-17T18:21:00.000-07:00

About 30 grasshopper species are considered garden pests. They wreak the most havoc in the middle of the country. Like many pests, grasshopper populations rise and fall. In peak years, grasshoppers eat all the plants they encounter, wiping out entire gardens and fields. Initial signs of feeding by young grasshoppers are jagged and tattered holes chewed in leaves.

Grasshoppers have long narrow bodies, with long angled back legs suited to jumping, and a head featuring large eyes and chewing mouthparts. Adult grasshoppers are winged and can fly a good distance, but juveniles are wingless and feed verociously. Eggs generally start hatching from March to June.

To thwart grasshoppers, keep an eye out for egg clusters. The best time to use chemicals and baits is in the spring and early summer. You can use malation, diazinon, acephate, carbaryl, chlorpyrifos, or bran-and carbaryl bait.

Watch for them at night, noting where they're located, and then spray their favorite locations after dark. If you're invaded by grasshoppers, you may want to consider netting for your plants.

Deer eating my garden

2009-05-17T18:20:00.000-07:00

Deer

Deer generally feed in forests and on wild grasses, but when food runs out, they venture out onto the fringes - suburban neighborhoods on the fringe of rural areas - to find food.

Once they find food, they tend to return on a regular basis, usually in the evening. Deer prefer flowering plants, especially roses, but they'll also eat foliage, fruit, and basically anything that you would eat that's growing in your garden.

Fencing is your best bet in preventing deer from ruining your garden. A 7-foot woven-wire fence will usually keep deer out, although some deer will jump that. The fence should be even higher if you're on a slope.

If you don't want to install a fence, you can try chicken-wire cages and cylinders of wire fencing around individual plants. Cover raised beds with mesh. A watch dog can also help. A large set of wind chimes can be effective if you have wind or stiff breezes.

Also, deer can be scared away by motion-sensing devices attached to lights, loud music or the jets of outdoor garden fountains

Unchecked populations of deer are an increasing problem for gardeners throughout the country. If you want to limit deer damage, start early. Barriers such as electric fencing and tall barrier fences have proven to provide the best control where populations are high. Electric fences are usually baited with peanut butter and supply a mild shock that deters deer without harming them. Barrier fences are often constructed of plastic mesh that the deer cannot see well and they are frightened when they walk into it. Both types of barriers are based on conditioned responses; deer avoid an area if they have been startled repeatedly. Fences must be checked periodically to ensure that they are functioning well. Several products that repel deer are available and may be used as a spray on the foliage of the plants that you are trying to protect or in dispensers that produce an odor that is unpleasant or alarming to deer. These work well only when deer populations are low or moderate since deer can overcome their aversion to them when the food supply is low. If your garden has been ravaged by deer, consider planting ornamentals that are unpalatable to them. Decimated yews can be replaced with Japanese plum yew, Cephalotaxus harringtonia. Azaleas and rhododendrons can be replaced with our native mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia.

Squirrels eating my garden

2009-05-17T18:19:00.002-07:00

Squirrels

Squirrels aren't picky. They'll show up in your garden and have a feeding frenzy on your seedlings, berries, fruit, vegetables - even roots and bark. Sometimes they'll attack your larger flowers and will dig up bulbs and newly planted seeds.

You`re more likely to encounter squirrels if you leave near fields or wild land. In the spring and summer, you'll see most squirrels active in mid-morning or late afternoon.

The best way to control squirrels is my trapping them. Use a box-type trap baited with a slice of orange or walnut). Or you may opt for anticoagulant types of poison bait, which should be placed in at least one bait station and available to the squirrel for at least a week. But first check with your county agent or farm advisor. Some jurisdictions prohibit the capture of some kinds of ground squirrels.

You can also try using birdfeeders specially designed to ward off squirrels.

Rabbits eating my garden

2009-05-17T18:19:00.001-07:00

Rabbits

Despite being so adorable-looking, rabbits aren't all that sweet and innocent. These furry guys can cause considerable damage in the garden, munching on peas, beans, lettuce, flowers, tulips, clover and deciduous tree bark. They live in tunnel systems called warrens and don't venture far to feed.

Once plants grow beyond the seedling stage - or trees develop tough bark - they are generally safe from bunny attacks. Rabbits generally leave clean-cut leaves and stems, unlike other pests who aren't quite as tidy in their attacks.

The best ways to keep rabbits out of your garden are by fencing, repelling, or trapping. You can also try planting a patch of clover or alfalfa away from your main garden area to divert the rabbits' attention. Also, remove brush and keep grasses low so rabbits don't have anywhere to hide. Or you can try motion-sensing devices that scare rabbits with a blast of cold water.

What are mealybugs

2009-05-17T18:18:00.001-07:00

Mealybugs

If your plants leaves are yellowing and you see dark, dirty patches, you may have a mealybug problem. There are several species of mealybug that may cause you and your garden problems.

Their favorite plants include tree fruits such as citrus, apples, and peaches, grapes, potatoes, and a number of tropical plants, including houseplants. These tiny insects appear in clusters on the undersides of leaves and clumped on in the forks of twigs and branches where they suck plant juices.

As they feed, some species inject toxins that damage plant tissues. They're oval in shape, with a grainy, dusty surface that is actually a protective waxy coating. Large clumps of mealybugs may resemble fur or lint. Mealybugs will invade your garden year-round if you're in a warm climate.

In colder climates, there may be two or three generations a year. To control mealybugs, spray affected plants with insecticidal soap or a stiff stream of cold water.

What are earwigs

2009-05-17T18:16:00.000-07:00

Earwigs

If your flower petals or soft vegetables are getting munched up, the culprit could be earwigs, earwigs are found all over the United States. These reddish-brown nocturnal creatures feed primarily on all things soft in the garden, including decaying organic matter, lettuce, corn, celery, tender young seedlings, and blossoms and ripening fruits.

When earwigs show up in large numbers, they can inflict substantial damage in your garden. Like many other pests, they do their destruction at night, hiding out during the day, even under the watchful eyes of Garden Gnomes

You can trap earwigs by catering to their love of tight, cozy places. Simply roll up some newspaper and place it on the ground in the evening. In the morning, dispose of the earwigs that have crawled in for cover.

Another way to trap earwigs is to put about ¼-inch of vegetable oil into empty short cans - like a tuna can - and placing them around the yard. You can also buy earwig bait, which contains propoxur or carbaryl, and place it around non-edible plants. Earwigs can be a real nuisance if you let them get out of control

What are aphids

2009-05-17T18:07:00.000-07:00

Aphids

If you see soft, oval-shaped insects that hang out together on the buds of your rose bushes, then chances are you have aphids. These insects come in an interesting range of colors, including green, pink, red, and black. Some have wings, some don't. You can usually get rid of aphids by spraying them with your water hose. You can also wash them off with insecticidal soap.

Aphids have a tendency to curl leaves around themselves and take cover in protected parts of the plant. Many other creatures in your garden will take care of your aphid problem. Lacewings, ladybird beetles, syrphid flies, predatory midges, wasps, lizards, small birds will naturally control aphids. It's easier to keep birds around if you have a water source.

Consider wall fountains or bird baths. And if you have aphids, there's a chance you'll have ants. Ants like to keep aphid colonies around because of a sweet substance aphids produce.

Once you rid yourself of the ants, many of the natural aphid-getters will re-establish themselves and control your aphids.

what time of day should I water my garden

2009-05-13T18:57:00.000-07:00

The best time of day to water the garden is early morning, before the heat of the day has set in. Also, water can cause the leaves to burn or become discolored in the hot sun. early morning watering also reduces the amount of water lost through evaporation, and also provides water for the plants to help them get through the heat of the day. Every few days, water the garden with a deep soaking of water in the early morning, and use drip irrigation, watering cans, or targeted hoses, rather than sprinklers and other devices which diffuse the water all over the garden. Sprinklers are inefficient, and they can also cause plant damage. As a rule of thumb, try to water the garden with one inch (two and a half centimeters) of water every week, through a combination of precipitation and watering.

Do not water the garden during the heat of the day, because the water will evaporate, rather than penetrate the soil. The goal is to deeply soak the soil, encouraging the plant to put out more roots to search for water, rather than creating a shallow area of moisture and keeping it moist. A plant with ready access to water through daily watering will develop a shallow root system and become weakened. Plants which are used to the stress of less frequent watering will also do better in varied weather conditions, or when a gardener forgets to water the garden.

The best time of day to water your garden is in the early morning but if you must water in the evening, after the heat is passed, make sure to water early enough that the leaves of the plants will completely dry before night time. Fungal infections can colonize leaves which are left moist overnight, and roots will also suffer from being watered in the late evening. Being left moist and cold at night can lead to rot and fungal infections of plant roots, an undesired result.

If you are trying to conserve water, water the garden with reclaimed water and rainwater, and make sure to check your irrigation system for leaks frequently. If you have time, hand-water all of the plants to ensure the most efficient use of water, checking the soil for moisture levels. If you do not, invest in a quality irrigation system which will help your garden to flourish. Gardeners with less water concerns should still water the garden wisely, as extra water will not lead to healthier plants. Remember, the best time of day to water your garden is always in the early mornin

How to start seedlings indoors

2009-05-07T08:00:00.001-07:00

Starting your seedlings indoors can be alot of fun and it can help you get the best plants possible. Just follow these basic guidelines for starting your seedlings indoors and you should be all set

Vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, need a long, warm growing season to produce a harvest.

If you plan to grow your own seedlings, start such crops indoors in early spring in order to have plants ready to set out in the garden when the weather has warmed up.

Starting seeds in containers is also a useful way to have plants of cool-season crops, such as broccoli and cabbage, ready to transplant into the garden in early spring or fall.

You can use a variety of containers, including flats or trays (with or without dividers), small individual pots, and cell-packs. If you're reusing old containers, scrub them out, and soak them for half an hour in a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts hot water to destroy any disease organisms.

Seeds to seedlings indoors

1. Fill 4-inch pots to just below the rim with a light, porous seed-starting or potting mix. (You can make your own mix by combining 1 part each of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite.) Moisten the mix, and let it drain.

Scatter seeds thinly over the surface. Check the seed packet for the recommended planting depth, and cover the seeds with the proper amount of mix. (As a rule of thumb, cover seeds to a depth equal to twice their diameter.) Label each container with the plant's name and the date. Moisten the soil lightly.

If you are starting heat-loving plants (tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, peppers, squashes, or melons), set the containers on a water heater or use a heating mat to keep the soil between 75°F/24°C and 90°F/32°C. (Most cool-season vegetables will germinate at room temperature.)

When the seeds germinate, move the pots into an area with bright light and temperatures between 60°F/16°C and 75°F/24°C.

2. When the seedlings develop their second set of true leaves, it's time to transplant them to individual pots, such as 3- or 4-inch plastic pots. Fill the new containers with potting mix, moisten the mix, and let it drain.

To remove the seedlings from their original pots, squeeze each pot's sides, and turn it upside down, keeping one hand around the soil ball. With both hands, carefully pull the soil ball apart, and set it down on a flat surface.

3. Separate the fragile rootballs of the seedlings from one another with a toothpick or skewer, or tease them apart with your fingers.

4. Poke a hole in the new container's potting mix. Carefully lift each seedling and its rootball, keeping your fingers under it for support. Place the seedling in its new container, and firm the mix around it. Water immediately, and then set the pots in bright light (but keep them out of direct sunlight for a few days). Feed the seedlings weekly with a fertilizer sold for starting seeds or with a liquid type diluted to half-strength.

Give them warmth and light indoors

Seedlings of edible crops need bright light to develop properly; when grown in conditions that are too dark, the seedlings are spindly and weak. If you don't have a suitable place for your seedlings, try growing them under fluorescent lights. As soon as the seeds sprout, give them 12 to 14 hours of light each day, setting the light fixture 6 to 8 inches above the tops of the plants.

Seeds of heat-loving summer crops need warm soil to germinate quickly and strongly. Thin waterproof heating mats placed under the containers keep the soil 15 to 20°F/8 to 11°C above room temperature.

Nurseries and mail-order catalogs offer both fluorescent light kits and heating mats.

Avoid "damping off" trouble

If your seedlings suddenly collapse and die, one of the fungal diseases called "damping off" or "seed and seedling rot" may be to blame. In one type of damping off, the seedling's stem collapses at or near the soil surface; in another type, the seedling rots before it emerges from the soil, or the seed decays before it even sprouts.

To prevent these problems, use pasteurized potting mix and new or thoroughly washed and disinfected containers.

Take care not to overwater seedlings; be sure to provide good air circulation and ventilation, so tops of seedlings stay dry and standing moisture is kept to a minimum. Thinning seedlings to eliminate crowding is also helpful.

Does neem oil work for pests

2009-05-05T02:56:00.000-07:00

NEEM OIL FOR PESTS

It seems like no matter what time of the year, insects abound, but there is a great organic solution available to keeping bugs in check.

Of course good gardening practices and proper crop rotation help, but sometimes you need a helping hand to keep your plants safe.

The neem tree, which has insecticidal properties and is native to India and Africa, produces seeds that have been used to repel insects and pests in stored grains and in gardens and homes for years.

Today, the extract of the neem tree seed is the active ingredient in Neem-Away Insect Spray. Neem-Away suppresses an insect’s desire to feed and disrupts its hormonal balance so it dies before molting.

Field tests have shown Neem-Away to be effective against a wide range of insects from aphids and caterpillars to corn borer and squash bugs. Neem-Away will not harm beneficial insects such as lady beetles and lacewing.

Neem oil can be used on a broad range of insects on vegetables, fruits and nuts, flowers, trees and shrubs.

Apply when pests first appear to prevent damage. Repeat every 7-10 days as needed; regular spraying increases its effectiveness

BOTRYTIS, blight and fruit rot

2009-05-05T02:48:00.000-07:00

		BOTRYTIS BLIGHT AND FRUIT ROT (Botrytis cinerea) Botrytis is a fungal disease that is worldwide and causes enormous damage to a wide range of fruits, flowers, and vegetables.

		PLANTS MOST AFFECTED Many plants, fruits, and vegetables including strawberry, grape, berries, tomato, lettuce, begonia, cyclamen, dahlia, geranium, peony, and rose.

		DAMAGE On flowering plants, the first symptoms you may see will be water-soaked spots on the leaves, flowers, or stems. These spots will quickly develop fuzzy gray or whitish growth. Infections often start as flower blights because older petals are more susceptible. Damage will soon spread to entire flowers and stems which collapse as the flowers dry and turn brown. On fruiting plants, a gray, tan, or whitish fluffy mold grows on berries and other fruit, which when disturbed, will emit of a puff of gray spores that scatter. Infected fruit has water-soaked spots, which later appear light brown and crack as the fungus grows. On berries the entire fruit becomes water-soaked and rots.

		MEANS OF CONTROL Prevention: 1. Botrytis spores are always present, but they don't germinate until exposed to cool and moist conditions, especially high humidity; disease develops where an injury provides entry 2. Promote good air circulation by pruning and spacing plants 3. In greenhouses, increase heating and ventilation to help dry out plant leaves early in the day. 4. Avoid injuring plants 5. Plant cultivars that are least susceptible to Botrytis Control: 1. Quickly remove infected flowers or plant parts and flowers that have finished blooming to help prevent spread of the fungus 2. Increase ventilation in greenhouses 3. Prune to help air circulation around infected plants 4. Spray with an organic fungicide like Neem Oil or Soap Shield (See Soap Shield information below)

Soap-Shield is a flowable liquid copper fungicide that is organic and controls diseases of a wide range of plants including many vegetables, fruits, and ornamentals.

It's easy to use, fast working, inexpensive, and Soap-Shield protects plants from infection and controls:

Botrytis
Fruit rot
Blights
Powdery mildew
Downy mildew
Black spot
Rust
Leaf and fruit spot

This fungicide is totally organic

African Violets

2009-05-05T02:46:00.000-07:00

The African violet originated in the warm and dry climate of mountainous East Africa. In the wild, the African violet grows from 50 up to 300 feet tall.

A member of the large gesneriad family of tropical and subtropical plants, the African violet's relatives include Gloxinias, Streptocarpus and Ramondas. In fact, the African violet isn't a true violet at all! True violets are in the family Violaceae and the genus Viola. Deep-rooted plants with large to small heart shaped leaves and varying degrees of hairiness, true violets thrive in a variety of climates and are found worldwide growing outdoors in either full sun or partial shade.

Different from those cultivated in container gardeners, wild African violets tolerate a fair amount of sunshine but prefer shady spots for optimum growth. The African violet is a shallow rooted plant with fleshy, hairy leaves. Since it is a sub-tropical plant, the African violet is typically not hardy over winter and, especially in temperate areas, is grown only as a houseplant.

Adalbert Emil Walter Redliffe le Tonnevy Von St Paul-Illaire is credited with discovering the African violet in 1892 and its genus, Saintpaulis, is named for him. The first African violet species, Saintpaulis ionantha (violet-like), bears small flowers that are similar to the true violet in color.

The African violet is a favorite plant of indoor gardeners all over the world. Fleshy leaves that are soft with fine hairs form a symmetry that is crowned with a halo of flowers. The African violet grows in one of two ways. Plants grow either by forming trailers or in a symmetrical rosette. Of the two types, the rosette continues to be the most popular form of African violet for container gardening.

Flowers of the African violet may be single or double blossom clusters that sprout and are framed by a rosette of green to dark green foliage. Through the years, careful cultivation and breeding have produced 20 recognized hybrids in a color span that includes white, pink, violet, purple and bi-colored flowers as well as the familiar blue. Plants with bicolor flowers have edges in a contrasting color to the main flower. In addition to the rainbow of flower colors, leaf bottoms may also be colored with a reddish tint.

When purchasing an African violet, you can tell if the plant is healthy by its flowers, which should be bright and distinctively colored. Healthy African violets bloom continuously throughout their lifetime. The African violet is one of the most widely grown houseplants on the planet. Although the easiest way to propagate your Saintpaulis is through leaf cuttings, the African violet flowers are actually the reproductive organs of the plant and are equipped with all the parts needed for propagation.

The African Violet Is an Easy Start to an Indoor Garden.

The African violet is one of the easiest houseplants you can grow. While there are dozens of expensive preparations on the market, the essentials to growing African violets are potting mixture, bright indirect light, air circulation, water and a fertilizer and of course an African violet pot. Aside from the pot, there is little you have to purchase to grow continuous blooming, healthy African violets.

Even the novice can enjoy true success with the African violet. With just a little bit of know how, taking care of African Violets is easy. In fact, they do best when left alone except for watering, propagating, and repotting. Of course, in a standard four-inch pot, the African violet won't reach 300 or even 50 feet in height, but given minimal care, the African violet is happy in any sunny spot in your home.

Plan my own vegetable garden

2009-05-03T11:04:00.001-07:00

Planning and planting a successful vegetable garden

Nothing tastes better than vegetables picked fresh from your own garden. There’s a certain satisfaction to serving and eating food that you yourself have grown and harvested. Although they typically demand a good bit of space, vegetables can even be grown in window boxes. Everyone, then, can experience the many joys of the kitchen garden.

Planning your Vegetable Garden
Advance planning is a must as there are many factors that can affect the success and manageability of your vegetable garden as well as your enjoyment of it.

The traditional method of vegetable garden design was to plant long, orderly rows. Most home gardeners now opt for planting in beds rather than rows. This method allows you to concentrate your compost on the area where the plants are growing rather than wasting it on the paths between the rows. Walking between the rows also ruins the soil structure, so beds are really a better way to go. The beds do need to be small enough so that you can easily reach in to weed and harvest all the plants without stepping on the bed itself. Also, if you raise your beds about 8 to 12 inches, you will have improved drainage and the soil will stay warmer in colder weather, such as early spring.

Another popular style is potager, which mixes flowers in together with herbs and vegetables in an ornamental fashion so that the garden is both functional and ascetically pleasing. Many vegetables also thrive in containers, so you don’t even need a garden in order to get those garden-fresh veggies.

Location is another consideration when planning your garden. Many people tend to want to hide the vegetable garden away in a dark corner and save spotlight for the flowers. Vegetable gardens, however, need sunny, open spaces in order to thrive, so you won’t reap a bounty if you are not willing to devote some real estate. Also, think about location when planting. You can economize space by planting vegetables next to each other that mature at different times. This way, you have already harvested one when it’s neighbor is becoming mature, so both have plenty of space and sun when they need it most.

Planting your vegetable garden
Preparing the Soil
Putting some extra effort into preparing your beds before planting will save you a lot of time and effort in the future. Dig the bed up to break up compacted soil (this will help with drainage) and removing rocks and weeds as you go. Try to pull out as much of the weed roots as possible so that they will not come back to haunt you later. This is also a good time to amend your soil.

Companion Plants in the Vegetable Garden
There are some plants that, when planted close together, will benefit each other. Likewise, there are certain combinations of plants that will inhibit the growth of one or both types of plants. Here are a few combinations to avoid:

Potatoes – inhibit growth of tomatoes and squash
Beans – inhibit growth of onions
Broccoli – inhibits growth of tomatoes
Carrots – inhibit growth of dill

This isn’t to say that you can’t grow these plants together in the same garden, just don’t grow them right next to each other.

Watering
Vegetables need a bit of extra care when it comes to watering. Consistent watering will produce successful results. If you have a large garden, you may want to consider a soaker hose. This will ensure that your plants get an even watering without getting the leaves wet and all you have to do is remember to turn on the house.

Rotating Crops:

Assuming that you plan to grow vegetables more than one year, it is important that you rotate your crops. Crop rotation prevents building diseases up in the soil and preserves micro-nutrients. Rotating is not very difficult, but does take a little advance planning as well as a basic knowledge of the vegetable families. Vegetables are broken down into basic family groups. These groups should be rotated together as they use soil in similar ways and share similar pests.

Alliums
Include Onions, Garlic, Scallions, Shallots, and Leeks.
Brassicas
I include Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and Kale.
Crucifers
include Turnips, Radishes, Rutabaga, and Collards.
Cucurbits
Include Cucumbers, Squashes (from zucchini to pumpkin), and Melons.
Legumes
Include Peas and Beans.
Mescluns
I nclude Arugula, Swiss Chard, Chicory, Endive, Escarole, and Radiccio.
Solanaceae
Include Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant.

Perennial vegetables such as Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes should not be rotated and therefore should be planted separately. The rest (most vegetables are hardy or semi-hardy annuals) should be rotated every year on a four year plan (so that the same family of vegetables is not planted in the same location within four years). This is easy to accommodate if you have planted four beds for your rotating plants and one bed for your non-rotating perennials. See where that advanced planning starts to come in handy?

Timing
How many times have you had a co-worker or friend arrive at your home or office with bags full of zucchini or cucumbers? If you plant all your vegetables at the same time, everything will come to maturity at the same time. The solution is to continually plant small amounts of short-season vegetables throughout the growing season. That way, you can enjoy your vegetables all summer long and not be inundated by them all at once.

Nothing, however, will save you from the dreaded onslaught of zucchini; I just don't plant it and that way I'm happy for the occasional gift. If they start to bomb you with bags of it, drop 'em off the Christmas card list and shun 'em. Nothing like a good old fashioned shunning to get those zucchini pushers in line...

Vegetable Container Gardens
Vegetables that thrive when planted in containers include: tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, carrots, chard, lettuce, beans, peas, and cucumbers. For information on how to get started, visit our article about container gardening (link to container gardening article).

Ornamental Vegetables
Who says that vegetables garden are homely? There are many vegetables that, in addition to tasting good, are also very attractive. These include: sweet peas, French (green) beans, runner beans, endive, kale, red cabbage, and ruby chard.

Vegetable gardening can be great fun and it is truly rewarding to enjoy delicious food from your own garden. With these basics tips, you are well on your way. Enjoy!

Are my cataloupe dying

2009-05-02T18:57:00.000-07:00

Cantaloupe

Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?

A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.

Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown cantaloupes?

A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.

Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins?

A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.

Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?

A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.

Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no flavor at all. What is wrong?

A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of cantaloupe grown affects flavor.

Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in next year's garden?

A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should not save seeds for next year's planting.

Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?

A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the blossom-end softens slightly.

Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy growth underneath.

A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using chlorothalonil.

Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.

A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.

Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens, the plants wilt and die.

A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners. Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.

Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of the decay there was a white fungal mat.

A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.

Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small swellings.

A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.

Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over them. What causes this?

A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate, malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.

Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will this harm my plants?
A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large populations without yield loss.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are turning yellow and dying.

A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.

MY tomoto plants are dying

2009-05-02T18:28:00.000-07:00

Q: My tomato plants are dying.
And I can't find anything that looks like what is happening. We have raised beds just put in this spring. One bed has only homestead tomato plants and the other has several varieties, big boy, better boy and celebrity.
The plants were gorgeous and full of tomatoes. But now my tomoto plants are dying and then the birds started after them and I put up netting. Then the squirrels decided to take their turn.
Now all the fruit is gone and the plants look as if they haven't been watered in a week. I water them every day. The leaves are turning brown from the edges and some have black spots and yellowing.
I know this isn't a very good description and I don't have pictures yet. Sure would appreciate ANY help.

ANSWER: The leaves are turning brown from the edges and some have black spots and yellowing

If there is no wilting and the leaves do have spots and initially usually yellow halos around those spots, it usually means a foliage disease.

In terms of treatment is means hopefully deciding if the infection is bacterial or fungal b'c the prognosis and treatment for those two kinds is different.

So without a picture to go on and no detailed description of the spots, why don't you go to Problem Solver #2, below, and look for pictures of the following, which are the four major causes of tomato foliage diseases:

Early Blight ( A. solani)
Septoria Leaf Spot
Bacterial Speck
Bacterial Spot

And see if you can recognize what you're seeing on your plants and let us know.

How do I repair a hole in my sheet rock, dry wall

2009-05-02T12:13:00.000-07:00

1.
Step 1

Clean the hole. Feel around the backside of the sheetrock to see if it is cracked. Cut out the entire damaged area, saving a portion of the painted wall to use as a swatch if you don't have any matching paint.
2.
Step 2

Screw a piece of scrap as a backer board in place. This board will act as support under the new patch of sheetrock from the backside of the wall where the hole was.
3.
Step 3

Apply self-adhesive fiberglass tape around the edges of your replacement piece to secure it into place. This new method is used in place of the traditional 'tape and bed' method, and saves a couple of steps.
4.
Step 4

Apply the mud (drywall compound). It can be purchased in a small pail at the local hardware store. Use about a 6-inch drywall or putty knife to apply an even coat over the patch and fiberglass tape. Make sure to extend the mud about 6 inches past the edge of the tape for extra security and smoothness. Apply it as evenly as possible.
5.
Step 5

Wait for the mud to dry. You can wait for it to dry on its own, which can take up to 12 hours, or you can speed the process up. By using a hair drier, or heat gun it can dry in as quick as 30 minutes.
6.
Step 6

Use a piece of sandpaper on a sanding block or sheetrock sandpaper to sand the surface smooth. It may be necessary to apply a second coat of mud if some spots are too thin. If so, repeat Step 6.
7.
Step 7

Paint the wall. If you don't have matching paint, take the damaged piece of wall you cut out to the paint store and they can match it. The damage should not be visible after the paint has dried. If you can still see lines, repeat Step 5.

Install my own ceiling fan, the easy way

2009-05-02T12:10:00.000-07:00

An easy-to-install ceiling fan can make a real difference in your home's climate - both cooling and heating - at a far lower cost and operating expense than almost any other item.

The installation begins with choosing where the fan should be located. In almost all homes, the fan is installed in the center of the room, replacing a central light fixture. This spot provides a smooth air flow to most of the room.

Since a fan draws about the same power as a ceiling fixture, the electrical circuit shouldn't be overloaded. But if your fan includes lights, be sure the circuit it's on has enough extra capacity to handle the load. If not, you must run a new circuit with a new circuit breaker from the house main service panel or subpanel to the fan.

If there is no central light fixture, you'll have to create a place to hang the ceiling fan. Then, you'll need to bring electrical power to it. You can tap into an existing circuit to do this.

Check the Blade Clearance

Check the floor-to-ceiling height of the fan blades. You can do this by measuring the floor-to-ceiling distance and subtracting for the part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down to the lower blade surface. An absolute minimum height of 7' is recommended. Building codes in your area may reinforce this.

If the floor-to-ceiling distance is too little, check into a low-ceiling mount for your fan. With some models, the fan blade height can be increased by as much as 10". Remember, though, that you need at least 12" between the ceiling and the tops of the fan blades for proper airflow. Having 18" is better if the space is available.

Mounting a Ceiling Fan

Step 1: Turn off the Power
Start your installation by turning off the power to the light's circuit breaker or fuse. Only then should you remove the light fixture.
Make sure to read all of theelectrical safety tips.

Step 2: Determine Center
If there is no central light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room to find its center. Determine whether the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist. If they do, move aside just far enough between the joists to fasten the side of the fan's new junction box directly to the joist.

Step 3: Install Junction Box
Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. If it's next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist.

Installation between joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2" x 4" header nailed between the joists. Sometimes, you can insert a 2" x 4" header through the junction box's hole, nailing it to each joist. If not, you may need to open a larger access hole. Then, patch the hole to close it again. View the image for a typical fan mounting where there's access above the joists for header-nailing.

Tip : You may choose to use a patented fan support unit designed to be inserted through the normal junction box hole to save you from opening a hole in the ceiling.

Use only a metal junction box to support a ceiling fan - never hang the fan from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and size of your ceiling fan - and your electrical code - you may use a 4" or 3" octagonal junction box. (Some local codes don't permit the use of 3" boxes.)

Caution: The heaviest fan that should be supported by an outlet/junction box is 35 pounds. If it weighs more, the building structure must support it. Also, your mounting must be able to withstand vibration while the fan is running. Even a well-balanced fan creates some vibration when it runs.

Step 4: Mounting to a Beamed Ceiling
You'll use a special beam mount when mounting a fan to a beamed ceiling. Use one kind for a horizontal beam, another for a pitched beam. You may need an extender to lower the fan to the proper level.

Caution: Fan-mounting is particularly important because any failure to make things secure could allow your fan to fall from the ceiling.

Assemble the Fan

Fan assembly varies from brand to brand. Be sure to follow the specific instructions with the unit that you buy. Regardless of the manufacturer's instructions, if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan.
Step 1: Install the Hanger Pipe
The hanger pipe is usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. The wires are then drawn up in the center. A set-screw is tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in place after it is threaded down.

Some fans have a separate motor hub into which the hanger pipe mounts. In this case, you'll place the actual motor housing over the hub.

If Fan has a Decorative Ceiling Cover

Other fans have a two-piece decorative ceiling cover to hide the hole in the ceiling. It is installed after the fan has been hung on the ceiling.

Tip: Tighten the setscrew well if the fan has a Hook-Style Hanger.

Other models use a hook, with the hanger bracket designed to accept it.

Step 2: Attach the Fan Blades
To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be stable. Often, the styrene foam packing for the motor housing makes an excellent stabilizer on your worktable.

Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed. On many fans you'll find the flanges, or prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.

Mounting the Fan to the Box

Step 1: Install Hanger Bracket
Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. If no lock washers are supplied, purchase them at your local hardware store. They will help prevent fan vibration from loosening the screws over time.

Tip: The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on which kind your fan uses. Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.

Step 2: Wire the Unit
Next, the unit is wired, and the ceiling cover is slipped up to its full height and tightened in place.

Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.

Step 3: Ground the Fan
The fan should be electrically grounded to both the metal box and the fan. The grounding wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will make your work easier. Wirenut the ground wires from the box; the fan and the power supply together.

Tip: If the fan wobbles when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced. To correct this, try interchanging two adjacent blades. If that doesn't work, take all the blades off and weigh each one on a food or postal scale. If any is underweight, tape a soft object such as a pencil eraser or modeling clay to the top center of the blade, making its weight the same as the others. Fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available. Reinstall the blades and the fan should run smoothly.

Problem Hanging?

When nothing else works for fan mounting, use a piece of good-looking hardwood plywood as a fan-mount. It should be large enough to extend over two joists. The size may be 18" x 18" or 26" x 26", or any variant that does the job.

Step 1: Attach to Joists
Use brass screws in pilot-drilled holes to attach the plywood to the ceiling joists. The screw length will vary, depending on the thickness of the plywood and plaster or plasterboard ceiling below the joists. Use one screw every 6".

Tip: The plywood will have an access hole of proper size cut in its center, and will serve as the main mounting member for the junction box above it.

Step 2: Install Molding
Finish the plywood with an outside corner molding, mitered at the corners for a neat appearance.

Or, you can get a surface-mounting fixture box along with a surface conduit wiring system that meets electrical codes. This allows you to do the wiring installation on the ceiling and wall, rather than behind it.

Tip: You may wish to wire your new ceiling fan through a fan speed control. This lets you set its operating speed smoothly and easily.

Use of Swag Wiring Kits

Swag kits are available if you wish to have a super-easy installation and a degree of portability in a ceiling fan. These replace the above-ceiling wiring job. In this case, though, the hanger bracket is screwed directly into a ceiling joist.

Step 1: Assembly and Wiring
The swag kit is wired into the fan, and the fan assembled as described earlier. Then slip it into the hanger bracket.

Step 2: Power for the Fan
The chain and cord are hung from hooks carried across the ceiling, toward a wall and down the wall, where the cord plugs into a handy receptacle.

Step 3: Mobility of Use
A swag-mounted ceiling fan can be taken down in a few minutes and moved to another location for greater onvenience.

Electrical Safety

* Use extra care when working with electricity. Even less current than it takes to light a 60-watt bulb can be lethal.
* All wiring should conform to local electrical codes as well as to the current National Electrical Code (NEC). You can probably find a copy of the NEC at your local library.
* Never trust a light switch to render a fixture "dead," because sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when the switch is located in the circuit beyond it.
* Turn off the circuit you're working on by switching off a circuit breaker or by unscrewing a fuse (the house main switch should be off when handling fuses). Then padlock the panel if you can.
* Make sure the circuit is truly "dead" before touching any wires or terminals. Check with a high-voltage neon tester. Test from the black wires to a grounded metal box or other good ground, then to the white wires. Also test from the white wires to a ground. Since there may be more than one circuit inside an outlet box, before you take off a cover, see that all of its circuits are off. Also, be sure your tester is functioning by first trying it in a live receptacle.
* Test your finished work with the power on using the neon tester. Check black to white and black to a ground. It should light. Test white to ground. It should not light.
* If you aren't knowledgeable about working around electricity, call in a professional.

Tools and Materials

* Ceiling fan
* Mounting kit
* Swag kit (if applicable)
* Lock washers
* Patented support unit
* 4" x 1 1/2" octagon electrical box
* Cable
* Outlet box
* Switch
* Box connectors
* Wirenuts
* Switch cover
* Bonding screw
* Neon test light
* No. 2 Phillips screwdriver
* Claw hammer
* 3/16" slotted screwdriver
* Speed controller
* Pliers
* Wallboard or compass saw
* Soft cloth
* Stud locator
* Ladder
* Electrician's pliers
* Wire-stripper
* Cable-ripper
* Surface-wiring system
There you have it. The absolute easiest way to install my own ceiling fan

A history of herbs

2009-04-30T19:39:00.001-07:00

History of Herbs

Herbs have played an important part in man's life for countless years -- in his politics, romance, love, religion, health, and superstition.

Celery was used by the Abyssinians for stuffing pillows. Ancient Greeks and Romans crowned their heroes with dill and laurel. Dill also was used by the Romans to purify the air in their banquet halls.

Some herbs were given magical properties, probably because of their medicinal uses. The early Chinese considered artemisia to have special charms. In France during the Middle Ages, babies were rubbed with artemisia juices to protect them from the cold. Ancient Greeks used sweet marjoram as a valuable tonic, and parsley as a cure for stomach ailments. Rosemary was eaten in the Middle Ages for its tranquilizing effects and as a cure-all for headaches.

Chives, still a common herb often found growing wild, had economic importance throughout Asia and many Mediterranean countries. Odd as it seems now, the early Dutch settlers in this country intentionally planted chives in the meadows so cows would give chive-flavored milk.

Mint, another popular herb today, also had its beginnings early in history. Greek athletes used bruised mint leaves as an after-bath lotion. In the Middle Ages, mint was important as a cleansing agent and later was used to purify drinking water that had turned stale on long ocean voyages. Mint also was given mystical powers It was used to neutralize the "evil eye" and to produce an aggressive character.

Mustard was lauded by Hippocrates, the ancient Greek physician, and Shakespeare called it a desirable condiment in several of his plays.

Other herbs with importance dating back to early times include basil, saffron, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme.

Early settlers brought herbs to America for use as remedies for illnesses, flavoring, storing with linens, strewing on floors, or burning for their pleasant fragrances. Some herbs were used to improve the taste of meats in the days before preservation techniques were developed. Other herbs were used to dye homespun fabrics.

Herb gardens were almost an essential feature of pioneer homes. They were placed in sunny corners near the house to be readily available to the busy homemaker. As the population of the new country grew, people from many nations brought herbs with them. This resulted in an exchange of slips, seeds, and plants.

Many herbs familiar to settlers from other countries were found growing wild in the new country. These included parsley, anise, pennyroyal, sorrel, watercress, liverwort, wild leeks, and lavender. American Indians knew uses for almost every wild, nonpoisonous plant, but they used the plants chiefly for domestic purposes -- tanning and dyeing leather and eating.

Definition, Number, and Types of Herbs Available

Early herb gardens were the major source for food seasoning. The need for homegrown herbs, however, declined with the advent of modern stores. Today, many gardeners are rediscovering the joy and pleasure of producing their own herbs.

Definition of Herb

From the botanical viewpoint, an herb is a seed plant that does not produce a woody stem like a tree. But an herb will live long enough to develop flowers and seeds.

Number of Herbs Available

A true herb connoisseur can select from a wide variety of common and not-so-common herbs. For example, the E & A Evetts Ashfields Herb Nursery of Shropshire, England, lists 57 herbs, 16 mints, 17 onion-type herbs, 20 sages, and 17 thymes in a recent catalog.

The Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook on Herbs lists 73 different types of herbs.

Some herbs fit into one or more classifications according to use -- culinary, aromatic, ornamental, and medicinal.

Culinary Herbs

Culinary herbs are probably the most useful to herb gardeners, having a wide range of uses in cooking. These herbs, because of their strong flavors, are generally used in small quantities to add flavor. Parsley, produced in the largest amount, is used mostly as a garnish. Next in popularity is sage -- an important flavoring in pork sausage. Other popular culinary herbs include chives, thyme, savory, marjoram, mint, and basil.

Aromatic Herbs

Aromatic herbs have some novel uses and are not as popular to grow. Most have pleasant smelling flowers or foliage. Oils from aromatic herbs can be used to produce perfumes, toilet water, and various scents. For home use, the plant parts are used intact, often to scent linens or clothing. When dried, many aromatic herbs will retain their aroma for a considerable period. Some common aromatic herbs include mint, marjoram, lovage, rosemary, and basil.

Ornamental Herbs

Ornamental herbs have brightly colored flowers and foliage. Many have whitish or light-colored flowers. Valerian has crimson blossoms while borage and chicory are blue-flowered. Such herbs as variegated thyme, mint, lavender, and chives produce variegated foliage.

Medicinal Herbs

Medicinal herbs have long been thought to have curative powers. But while present medical knowledge recognizes some herbs as having healing properties, others are highly overrated. Medicinal herbs should be used carefully. Some herbs are harmless while others can be dangerous if consumed.

Herb Types

Herbs also can be classified as annuals, biennials, and perennials. Annuals bloom one season and then die. Biennials live for two seasons, blooming the second season only. Once established, perennials overwinter and bloom each season.

Herbs for Beginning Gardeners

Beginning herb gardeners may have a problem deciding which herbs to plant because of the large number of herbs from which to select. A quick check of your supermarket shelf will give you some idea of the types of herbs used in cooking and also will serve as a planting guide. Many cookbooks also offer information on uses of various herbs as flavorings.

Following is a good variety of flavors and uses of recommended herbs for beginners:

Strong herbs -- winter savory, rosemary, sage
Herbs strong enough for accent -- sweet basil, dill, mint, sweet marjoram, tarragon, thyme
Herbs for blending -- chives, parsley, summer savory

As your interest and needs increase, you can add to the variety of herbs in your garden. Keep in mind that herbs can be annuals, biennials, or perennials when selecting herbs to grow for the first time.

Annuals (bloom one season and die) -- anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill, summer savory
Biennials (live two seasons, blooming second season only) -- caraway, parsley
Perennials (overwinter; bloom each season once established) -- chives, fennel, lovage, marjoram, mint, tarragon,
thyme, winter savory.

Outdoor Herb Culture Tips

Most commonly used herbs will grow in the Northeast. If you have room, you can make herbs part of your vegetable garden. However, you may prefer to grow herbs in a separate area, particularly the perennials.

Herb Garden Size

First, decide on the size of your herb garden; this will depend on the amount of variety you want. Generally, a kitchen garden can be an area 20 by 4 feet. Individual 12- by 18-inch plots within the area should be adequate for separate herbs. You might like to grow some of the more colorful and frequently used herbs, such as parsley and purple basil, as border plants. Keep annual and perennial herbs separate. A diagram of the area and labels for the plants also will help.

Site and Soil Conditions

When selecting the site for your herb garden, consider drainage and soil fertility. Drainage is probably the most important single factor in successful herb growing. None of the herbs will grow in wet soils. If the garden area is poorly drained, you will have to modify the soil for any chance of success. To improve drainage at the garden site, remove the soil to a depth of 15 to 18 inches. Place a 3-inch layer of crushed stone or similar material on the bottom of the excavated site. Before returning the soil to the bed area, mix some compost or sphagnum peat and sand with it to lighten the texture. Then, refill the beds higher than the original level to allow for settling of the soil.

The soil at the site does not have to be especially fertile, so little fertilizer should be used. Generally, highly fertile soil tends to produce excessive amounts of foliage with poor flavor. Plants, such as chervil, fennel, lovage, and summer savory, require moderate amounts of fertilizer. Adding several bushels of peat or compost per 100 square feet of garden area will help improve soil condition and retain needed moisture.

Sowing Herb Seed

Nearly all herbs can be grown from seed. Although rust infects mints, very few diseases or insects attack herbs. In hot, dry weather, red spider mites may be found on low-growing plants. Aphids may attack anise, caraway, dill, and fennel.

A few herbs, such as mints, need to be contained or they will overtake a garden. Plant them in a no. 10 can or bucket; punch several holes just above the bottom rim to allow for drainage. A drain tile, clay pot, or cement block also can be used. Sink these into the ground; this should confine the plants for several years.

Herbs can also be grown in containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets. These methods will require more care, especially watering.

If possible, sow seeds in shallow boxes in late winter. Transplant seedlings outdoors in the spring. A light, well-drained soil is best for starting the seedlings indoors. Be careful not to cover the seeds too deeply with soil. Generally, the finer the seed, the shallower it should be sown. Sow anise, coriander, dill, and fennel directly in the garden since they do not transplant well.

Most biennials should be sown in late spring directly into the ground. Work the soil surface to a fine texture and wet it slightly. Sow the seeds in very shallow rows and firm the soil over them. Do not sow the seeds too deeply. Fine seeds, such as marjoram, savory, or thyme, will spread more evenly if you mix them with sand. Some of the larger seeds can be covered by as much as one-eighth of an inch of soil. With fine seeds, cover the bed with wet burlap or paper to keep the soil moist during germination. Water with a fine spray to prevent washing away of the soil.

Cutting and Division

Cutting and division also are useful in propagating certain herbs. When seeds are slow to germinate, cuttings may be the answer. Some herbs, however, spread rapidly enough to make division a main source of propagation. Tarragon, chives, and mint should be divided while lavender should be cut.

Harvesting Herbs

Fresh leaves may be picked as soon as the plant has enough foliage to maintain growth. To ensure good oil content, pick leaves or seeds after dew has disappeared but before the sun becomes too hot. For dry, winter use, harvest leaves before the flower buds open. Pick the seed heads as the color changes from green to brown or gray. Wash dirty leaves and seed heads in cold water; drain thoroughly before drying.

Winter Protection

Perennial and biennial herbs should be winter protected. Many herbs are shallow-rooted, which makes them susceptible to heaving during spring thaws. Mulch with straw, oak leaves, or evergreen boughs 4 inches deep to protect the plants. Apply the mulch after the ground has frozen in early winter. Do not remove the mulch until plants show signs of growth in early spring. Early removal could result in some early frost damage.

Indoor Herb Gardening

Herbs can also be grown indoors for year-round enjoyment. Growing herbs indoors is no more difficult than growing them in the garden.

Indoor plants will need essentially the same conditions as herbs grown outdoors -- sunlight and a well-drained soil mix that is not too rich.

Select a south or west window. Different herbs have different light requirements, but most need a sunny location; in winter, "grow lamps" or fluorescent lamps are helpful in supplementing light.

When planting, mix two parts sterilized potting soil and one part coarse sand or perlite. To ensure sweetness of the soil, add a cut of ground limestone per bushel of soil -- or 1 teaspoon of lime per 5-inch pot. There should be an inch of gravel at the bottom of each pot to ensure good drainage.

Consider the water needs of each herb. Growing plants need more water as do plants in clay pots or hanging baskets. Misting and grouping the plants on a tray of moistened pebbles will help keep them in a humid condition. Don't drench herbs -- avoid getting herb roots soggy.

Annual herbs can spend their full life cycle in a pot indoors. Perennial herbs, however, will do better if you place them outdoors during the summer. Plunge the pot in soil up to its rim, or keep it in a protected location on the porch or patio.

Herb plants need sun during the summer months, so place them accordingly. To prevent the loss of foliage and avoid plant damage, bring herbs indoors before frost. A light frost is helpful on mint, chives, and tarragon; it tends to induce a rest period and make the resulting new growth firm and fresh.

You can maintain an indoor herb garden indefinitely by periodic light feeding, yearly repotting, renewing annuals, seasonal moves outdoors for perennials, and occasional pruning. Water plants as needed. Use several planters or a divided one to allow for different moisture needs of plants.

Drying Herbs

If you have an herb garden, you'll find that home-dried herbs can be just as tasty as those bought at the store. However, proper handling is as important to the success of your herb harvest as good cultural practices.

Preparation

Most herbs are at their peak flavor just before flowering, so this is a good time to collect them for drying and storage. To be certain, check drying directions on specific herbs in a reliable reference book. Cut off the herbs early in the morning just after the dew has dried. Cut annuals off at ground level, and perennials about one-third down the main stem, including the side branches.

Wash herbs, with the leaves on the stems, lightly in cold running water to remove any soil, dust, bugs, or other foreign material. Drain thoroughly on absorbent towels or hang plants upside down in the sun until the water evaporates.

Strip leaves off the stalks once plants have drained and dried, leaving only the top 6 inches. Remove all blossoms.

Natural or Air Drying

Herbs must be dried thoroughly before storing. Herbs with high moisturecontent, such as mint and basil, need rapid drying or they will mold. To retain some green leaf coloring, dry in the dark by hanging plants upside down in bunches in paper bags. Hanging leaves down allows essential oils to flow from stems to leaves. Tie whole stems very tightly in small bunches. Individual stems will shrink and fall. Hang in a dark, warm (70^o-80^oF [21.1^o-26.7^oC]), well-ventilated, dust-free area. Leaves are ready when they feel dry and crumbly in about 1 to 2 weeks.

Drying Seeds

Seeds take longer to dry than leaves, sometimes as much as 2 weeks for larger seeds. Place seed heads on cloth or paper. When partially dry, rub seeds gently between palms to remove dirt and hulls. Spread clean seed in thin layers on cloth or paper until thoroughly dry.

You also can dry herb seeds by hanging the whole plant upside down inside a paper bag. The bag will catch the seeds as they dry and fall from the pod.

Over Drying

For quick oven drying, take care to prevent loss of flavor, oils, and color. Place leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet or shallow pan not more than 1 inch deep in an open oven at low heat less than 180^oF (82.2^oC) for about 2 to 4 hours.

Microwave ovens can be used to dry leaves quickly. Place the clean leaves on a paper plate or paper towel. Place the herbs in the oven for 1 to 3 minutes, mixing every 30 seconds.

Silica Gel or Salt Drying

Silica gel or noniodized table salt can be used to dry or "cure" non-hairy leaves. Clean and blot dry leaves before placing them in a tray or shallow pan of the silica gel or salt. After the leaves have dried, approximately 2 to 4 weeks, remove the leaves from the drying material, shake off the excess material, and store them in glass containers. Before using, rinse leaves thoroughly in clear, cold water.

Another method of drying herbs is to remove the leaves from the plants, wash them, and spread them thinly on screens to dry, avoiding exposure to bright light. Cheesecloth makes a good screen material and stretches well.

Freezing Herbs

Herbs also can be frozen. Harvest herbs according to recommendations. Wash them thoroughly and blanch them in boiling, unsalted water for 50 seconds Cool them quickly in ice water and then package and freeze them. Washed fresh dill, chives, and basil can be frozen without blanching.

Storage

When completely dry, the leaves may be screened to a powder or stored whole in airtight containers, such as canning jars with tightly sealed lids.

Seeds should be stored whole and ground as needed. Leaves retain their oil and flavor if stored whole and crushed just before use.

For a few days, it is very important to examine daily the jars in which you have stored dried herbs. If you see any moisture in the jars, remove the herbs and repeat the drying process. Herbs will mold quickly in closed jars if not completely dry.

Once you are sure the herbs are completely dry, place them in the airtight containers, and store them in a cool, dry place away from light. Never use paper or cardboard containers for storage as they will absorb the herbs' aromatic oils.

Herb Description, Culture, Harvesting, and Use

Anise (Pimpinella anisum)

Description
Anise is a dainty annual that grows from 1 � to 2 feet high. It has finely cut, serrated leaves and very small, whitish flowers in flat clusters. The leaves and seeds have a warm, sweet taste that suggests licorice.

Culture
Anise grows rapidly from seed. Plant after all danger of frost has passed. If planted in rows, thin to 6 to 8 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart.

Harvesting
The green leaves can be cut whenever plants are large enough. Gather seeds about 1 month after flowers bloom.

Use
Anise leaves can be used in salads and as a garnish. Use the seeds to flavor confections such as cakes and cookies. Oil from anise seed is used in medicine.

Basil (Sweet) (Ocimum basilicum)

Description
Basil is an attractive annual, about 18 inches tall with light-green, fairly broad leaves. The flowers are small, white, and appear in spikes. There are several species of cultivated basil, one having purple leaves.

Culture
Basil grows easily from seed planted after all danger of frost has passed. Pinch stems to promote bushy, compact growth. Avoid lush growth as it may reduce the flavor.

Harvesting
Green leaves can be picked about 6 weeks following planting. It is best to cut leaves for drying just before flowers open.

Use
Spicy-scented basil leaves are one of the most popular of all herbs used in cooking. Cooks favor basil for tomato dishes in either fresh or dried form.

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Description
Borage is a decorative annual with coarse, hairy leaves and stems and beautiful sky-blue flowers in a star shape. The plant grows about 2 to 3 feet tall.

Culture
Borage is easily grown from seed and will sow itself. This plant does best in dry, sunny places. Although it is difficult to transplant, you can stretch out the harvest by sowing three times at 4-week intervals.

Harvesting
Pick blossoms as they open. Use leaves fresh anytime; they are seldom dried.

Use
Sprays of borage flowers and leaves are used to give a cool, cucumber-like flavor to summer drinks. Bees are attracted to the borage plant.

Caraway (Carum carvi)

Description
Caraway is a biennial plant that grows about 30 inches tall. The flowers appear in flat, white clusters and, like the finely cut leaves, resemble those of carrots.

Culture
Caraway can be easily raised from seed. Usually, plants do not bear seed the first year they are planted, but if planted in the fall, they will bear seed the following year. This herb is not easily transplanted. If sown in rows, thin to 8 to 12 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Protect roots with mulch in winter.

Harvesting
Seeds can be picked when ripe, about a month after flowering, when they are grayish-brown in color.

Use
Caraway seeds have a warm, aromatic odor and flavor and are popular in cooking. The oil of caraway seeds is an important ingredient in liqueurs. Use in Hungarian-type dishes, coleslaw, cheese spreads, meat stews, and fish casseroles.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria)

Description
Catnip is a hardy perennial plant that grows 3 to 4 feet tall. The heart-shaped leaves are green above and gray below. The plant has purple flowers.

Culture
Catnip is a hardy plant that will grow in sun or shade. It can be grown from seed or propagated by division. When young, the plants are decorative. As they grow older, however, they become scraggly. It's best to plant catnip as a background plant.

Harvesting
Cut and dry the mature leafy tops and leaves.

Use
Catnip leaves are used for tea and seasoning and also are attractive to cats.

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium)

Description
Chervil is an annual plant that grows up to 2 feet tall. It's lacy leaves resembe parsley but are a lighter shade of green. The flat heads have delicate white flowers.

Culture
Chervil can be raised from seed sown in the garden in early spring. Seedlings are difficult to transplant. Thin plants 3 to 4 inches apart. For denser foliage, cut the flower stems before they bloom.

Harvesting
Pick leaves just before the buds break. Cut and dry the green, tender leaves.

Use
Chervil leaves are used much like parsley - in soups, salads, sauces, egg dishes, and cheese souffl�s.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)

Description
Chives are small, dainty, onion-like plants that grow in clumps reaching about 10 inches in height. They are a hardy perennial with decorative, light purple flowers.

Culture
Chives demand little care other than dividing when they become overcrowded. They are easily propagated by division or from seed and make attractive border plants.

Harvesting
Cut fresh leaves for use as they grow.

Use
Chives are used to impart a delicious, subtle, onion-like flavor to foods.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)

Description
Coriander is a dainty annual plant that grows about 2 feet tall. It has finely divided leaves that are both strong-smelling and ill-tasting. Small white or purplish-tinged flowers appear in small, flat heads.

Culture
Coriander is easily grown from seed sown in the garden in spring. This plant does well in any good garden soil. Thin plants 7 to 10 inches apart.

Harvesting
Harvest plants when 6 inches high or pick leaves sparingly when plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. Gather seeds as they ripen in mid-summer.

Use
Coriander seeds, round and about one-eighth of an inch in diameter, have a delicious perfumed taste and odor and are used as a condiment in confections.

Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Description
Dill, a popular annual, has bluish-green stems that contrast with finely divided, yellow-green, plume-like leaves and yellowish flowers. Dill grows about 2 to 3 feet high.

Culture
Dill is easily grown from seed sown in the garden in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Sow the seed where you want it to grow as it is difficult to transplant. Stake tall plants.

Harvesting
For best results, pick leaves just as flowers open. Pick seeds when they are flat and brown.

Use
Both the leaves and seeds of dill are popular for flavoring pickles, sauerkraut, and beet dishes. It can be combined with garlic and pepper to produce a highly flavored Mediterranean or East European pork roast (often cooked over a spit outdoors). The seeds yield a fragrant oil.

Fennel (Florence) (Foeniculum dulce)

Description
Fennel is a perennial (but usually grown as an annual) that grows to about 3 to 4 feet tall. The leaves are finely divided into thread-like segments and are light green.

Culture
Fennel grows easily from seed planted in the garden in spring. Sow in full sun. Space rows 3 feet apart. Thin plants 10 to 12 inches apart and stake when 18 inches tall to protect from wind.

Harvesting
Pick seeds when ripe. The best stems for eating are the tender flower stalks just before they blossom.

Use
Fennel seeds are used as a condiment. The leaves have an anise-like flavor and the stems can be eaten like celery. Seeds can be used in cheese spreads and vegetable dishes.

Horehound (Marrubium vulgare)

Description
Horehound is a somewhat coarse perennial plant that is covered with a whitish down. The leaves are crinkled and tend to turn downward.

Culture
Horehound grows well in light soil and withstands full sun and intense heat. It is a hardy plant but needs protection where winters are very cold. Horehound can be propagated from seed, cuttings, or by division. Because of its weedy growth habits, it is best to place this plant in the background.

Harvesting
Leaves and small stems can be cut in May before plants bloom.

Use
Horehound is the source of the familiar old-fashioned horehound candy.

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)

Description
Hyssop is a hardy perennial that grows no more than 2 feet tall. It has woody stems, small pointed leaves, and spikes of small purple flowers. There also are forms with pink or white flowers. If kept clipped, it makes a good border or small hedge.

Culture
Hyssop will grow in rather poor soil and is easily propagated from seed. When it is established, it is a quite hardy plant.

Harvesting
Use the youngest leaves and stems as needed.

Use
Hyssop's pungent leaves are used to flavor liqueurs and sometimes are used as a condiment. Oil obtained from the leaves is used in making perfume.

Lavender (Lavandula vera)

Description
Lavender is a many-branched, somewhat woody, perennial plant growing 1 � to 3 feet tall. The narrow leaves are about 2 inches long and have a pleasing gray-green color. The small lavender flowers are borne on long-stemmed, slender spikes.

Culture
Lavender grows best in rocky, dry, sunny places with an abundant amount of lime in the soil. It can be propagated by seed or cuttings. If winters are severe, the plant needs protected.

Harvesting
Cut whole flower spikes when the first flowers begin to open, and dry.

Use
Lavender is one of the most famous of all herbs for the fragrance of its dried flowers and the oil distilled from them. It is used most often in sachets and perfumes.

Lovage (Levisticum officinale)

Description
Lovage is a hardy perennial with large, rich green leaves that resemble those of celery. The leaves are stronger tasting, but sweeter than celery.

Culture
Lovage does best in a rich, fairly moist soil and can be propagated from seed planted in late summer.

Harvesting
Use the leaves fresh, or dry them at any time.

Use
The leaves and stems of lovage give a celery flavor to soups and salads. Blanch stem bases before eating.

Marjoram (Sweet) (Marorana hortensis)

Description
Sweet marjoram, usually grown as an annual, is one of the most fragrant and popular of all herbs. Its growth habit is low and spreading, and it reaches a height of about 8 to 12 inches. It has small, oval, gray-green leaves that are velvety to the touch.

Culture
This plant can be easily grown from seed or cuttings. In colder climates, it is best treated as an annual or kept overwinter as a pot plant. Its color makes it an attractive border plant.

Harvesting
Sweet marjoram leaves can be used anytime. Cut the leafy stems at flowering and dry for future use.

Use
Sweet marjoram leaves, fresh or dried, can be used as a flavoring in cooking. The oil derived from the leaves is used in making perfume.

Oregano (Wild marjoram) (Origanum vulgare)

Description
Oregano, also called "wild marjoram," is a hardy perennial that has sprawling stems which can grow to 2 feet tall. This plant is much coarser than sweet marjoram and smells more like thyme. It has small pink or white flowers.

Culture
Oregano grows well in poor soil and can be propagated by seed or division. Thin plants 10 to 12 inches apart. Stimulate foliage by cutting back flowers. Replant when plants become woody in 3 to 4 years.

Harvesting
Use fresh leaves as needed. Preserve leaves by drying.

Use
Oregano leaves are used extensively as a flavoring on pizza. Sprinkle leaves over lamb or steak rubbed with lemon juice. Add to other Italian-type sauces.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

Description
Parsley is a hardy biennial that is usually treated as an annual. It is popular because of its much-divided, sometimes curly leaves which have a characteristic flavor and smell.

Culture
Cut parsley when the leaves are of suitable size. Leaves can be used fresh or dried.

Use
Parsley is one of the most familiar of all herbs and is used for both garnishing and flavoring. It is relatively high in vitamins A and C and iron.

Peppermint (Mentha piperita)

Description
Peppermint is a perennial plant with spreading rootstalks and many upright stems 2 feet or more in height. Its dark green leaves and reddish-tinged stems have a characteristic warm, spicy scent. Tiny purplish flowers appear in thick terminal spikes 1 to 3 inches long.

Culture
Peppermint does best in a rich, moist soil. Propagate by division or cuttings. The plant will grow in sun or shade. It is best to renew beds every 3 to 4 years.

Harvesting
The more frequently the sprigs are cut, the better the growth. Use leaves at any time. Leaves to be dried are best taken just as flowers begin to appear.

Use
The leaves are used in tea and for other flavoring. Oil from the plant is used in products such as chewing gum, confections, toilet water, soap, and liqueur.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Description
Rosemary is a hardy evergreen shrub in areas where winter temperatures stay above 5^oF (-15^oC). In the Northeast, however, this perennial should be taken indoors and kept as a pot plant during winter. The narrow leaves have a leather-like feel and a spicy, resinous fragrance.

Culture
Rosemary grows best in well-drained, sunny locations in lime-rich soil. It can be propagated by cuttings or grown from seed. Pinch the tips to direct growth.

Harvesting
Use fresh leaves as needed.

Use
Rosemary is a popular flavoring for meats and dressings or as a garnish on large roasts. Oil from leaves is used in medicine.

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Description
Sage is a woody, hardy perennial plant with oblong, wooly, gray-green leaves that are lighter underneath and darker on top. Sage grows 2 to 3 feet or more in height and has a tendency to sprawl.

Culture
Start from seed or cuttings. A slow starter, sow seed indoors and transplant. Plant sage where it will receive full sun. Space plants 2 to 2 � feet apart. Plants eventually become woody and should be renewed every 3 to 4 years.

Harvesting
Pick the leaves before or at blooming. Cut back the stems after blooming.

Use
This aromatic and slightly bitter herb is noted for its use in stuffings for poultry, rabbit, pork, and baked fish. It also can be used in sausage or meat loaves.

Savory (Summer) (Satureja hortensis)

Description
Summer savory is a tender annual that grows up to 18 inches tall. It has small bronze-green leaves and very small white or lavender flowers. The leaves are pungent and spicy.

Culture
Summer savory grows best in a well-worked loamy soil. Seed can be planted in the garden in spring.

Harvesting
Cut leafy tops when the plants are in bud. Hang in an airy, shaded place until crisp and dry.

Use
Summer savory is popular as a condiment with meats and vegetables and is generally considered sweeter than winter savory.

Savory (Winter) (Satureja montana)

Description
Winter savory has dark green, shiny, pointed leaves much stiffer in texture than summer savory. It is a woody perennial plant growing to 2 feet in height with small white or lavender flowers.

Culture
Winter savory does best in a light, sandy soil. Keep dead wood trimmed out. Propagate by cuttings or raise from seed.

Harvesting
Pick young shoots and leaves at any time. The leaves are almost evergreen but not as pungent in winter. It is best dried for winter use.

Use
Winter savory is a condiment often used as a flavoring in liqueurs. Its taste is not as sweet as summer savory.

Spearmint (Mentha spicata)

Description
This hardy perennial plant has pointed, slightly crinkled leaves that are a lighter shade of green than peppermint. The whole plant has a sweet characteristic smell.

Culture
Spearmint grows best in a somewhat moist soil and can be propagated by cuttings or division. Renew beds every 3 to 4 years. Growth is enhanced by frequent cuttings.

Harvesting
Pick the fresh leaves and leafy stem tips for use at any time. For drying, it is best to cut leaves just as flowering begins.

Use
Spearmint leaves are used in teas and to flavor cold drinks and make mint sauce. The oil is used in confections.

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)

Description
Tarragon is an herbaceous perennial that grows to about 2 feet tall. It has multibranched growth with narrow, somewhat twisted, green leaves.

Culture
Tarragon will grow in full sun but seems to do better in semishade. It can be propagated from root cuttings or by division. It needs protection in winter in cold climates. Make new plantings every 3 to 4 years.

Harvesting
It is best to use fresh young leaves and stem tips. Flavor is lost when tarragon is dried.

Use
Tarragon leaves have a distinctive flavor similar to anise and are used in salads, marinades, and sauces. Leaves yield flavor to vinegar when steeped.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

Description
Thyme is a low-growing, wiry-stemmed perennial that reaches about 6 to 10 inches in height. The stems are stiff and woody and leaves are small, oval, and gray-green in color. The lilac flowers are borne in small clusters and the leaves are very aromatic.

Culture
This plant grows best in light, well-drained soil. Thin plants 8 to 12 inches apart. It is best to renew the plants every few years. Propagate with cuttings, divisions, or by direct seeding. Thyme is an attractive edging plant or a spreading plant among and over rocks.

Harvesting
Cut leafy tops and flower clusters when first blossoms open and dry.

Use
Thyme is widely used as a seasoning. Oil of thyme is used in medicines and perfumes. It goes well in gumbos, bouillabaisse, clam chowder, poultry stuffings, and slow-cooking beef dishes.

Woodruff (Sweet) (Asperula odorata)

Description
Sweet woodruff is a low, spreading, perennial plant that forms clumps about 8 inches in height. The slender leaves are borne in starry whorls. The flowers are tiny and white and form in loose clusters. When the plant is crushed, it has a sweet scent similar to freshly mown hay and vanilla.

Culture
Sweet woodruff can be grown as a perennial if winters are not too severe, but it needs winter protection or should be taken indoors in cold climates. It will thrive in semishade and makes an attractive ground cover under taller plants.

Harvesting
Harvest and dry plants in the spring when fragrance is the strongest.

Use
Sweet woodruff is most often used in flavoring German May wine and in other drinks.

Growing perfect corn

2009-04-30T19:35:00.001-07:00

1. Soil Preparation : Choose a wind sheltered spot in full sun which provides good drainage and enough humus to insure that the ground will not dry out too quickly in hot weather. Ideally, the top soil should be slightly acidic, deep and very fertile. Dig up your plot in the winter being sure not to bring clay to the surface and incorporate a good grade of compost into the soil. Two weeks prior to sowing the seed, rake in a good source of fertilizer.

2. Sowing & Planting : For the best results, corn must be planted in a rectangle of at least 4 rows opposed to a singular row. This will not only insure proper pollination, but provide some wind protection to the crop. Sow the seeds directly into the ground opposed to starting them in trays or pots as corn can be difficult to transplant. Sow two seeds together approximately one inch deep every 18 inches in the row and remove the weaker of each two seedlings, leaving 18 inches between the remaining plants.

3. Looking After the Plants : Protect your seedlings with netting if birds are a nuisance and keep down the weeds but do not hoe close to the plants. If roots appear at the base of the plant's stem, mound dirt or compost over them. These protruding roots, which are referred to as "tillers", should not be removed. If the plants are tall and little protection is available, it may be wise to stake each plant for extra support. Be sure to provide plenty of water for the plants in hot water, which is especially necessary when they flower. Make it a habit to tap the tassles at the top of each stem regularly as this will aid in germination. Feed the plants with a good liquid fertilizer source when the cobs begin to swell.

4. Harvesting : Each plant will produce several harvestable cobs. Test the cobs for ripeness when the silks (tassles) have turned a dark brown color by pulling back part of the sheath (husk) and squeeze a couple of the grains between the thumbnail and fingernail. If a watery liquid squirts out from the kernel, the ear is unripe. If the discharge is creamy, the ear is prime for harvesting, where as if the liquid is thick and somewhat solid, you have waited too long to harvest. Carefully twist the ripe ear from the plant's stem, being careful not to injure the plant. Harvest just before you intend to cook the corn as this crop is at its best if cooked within 10 minutes of harvest.

5. Storage : If storage is necessary, corn can stay fresh in your refrigerator for up to 3 days, but can also be frozen for the freezer in zip-lock freezer bags

How to grow a perfect tomato

2009-04-30T19:25:00.000-07:00

Here's how to get started growing your own fresh, delicious food in garden beds or pot

How can I grow the sweetest, most flavorful tomatoes?
A tomato's sugar content is largely a matter of its genetic makeup. Some varieties, like the cherry types, are extremely sweet. Others, including black varieties such as 'Black Krim', 'Cherokee Purple', and 'Paul Robeson', naturally have a robust, intense flavor. But any tomato grown in full sun – for at least eight hours a day – is more flavorful than one from a plant in part shade.

Can I plant tomatoes in the same place every year?
Try to avoid that; diseases build up in the soil and spoil future crops. Grow tomatoes in the same bed only every third or fourth year. If you have just one sunny spot for growing tomatoes, plant in large containers, and change the soil every year.

What are the best varieties for beginners?
All are easy to grow if they're adapted to your region. In climates with a short or cool summer (at high altitudes and along the coast, for example), long-season beefsteak types won't ripen well, but shorter-season varieties will. Cherry (salad) tomatoes are almost foolproof there and elsewhere in the West; our favorites include 'Black Cherry', 'Green Grape', 'Isis Candy', 'Sun Gold', and 'SunSugar'. For a medium-size slicer, 'Early Girl' also produces well nearly everywhere.

Do heirlooms taste better?
Often, but not always. Tomato tasting is not unlike wine tasting – different flavors appeal to different palates, and few crops offer a greater range of flavors than heirloom tomatoes.

What types are best for growing in containers Do potted tomatoes need special care?
The best tomatoes for growing in pots are cherry tomatoes. They do well in containers at least 16 inches deep and wide, and need watering and feeding more often than tomatoes growing in the ground. The bigger the container, the less frequently you'll have to water in hot weather, and the more room roots have to run. A half whiskey or wine barrel is perfect.

What's the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, and why should I care which type I grow?
Determinate tomatoes such as 'Celebrity', 'Roma', and 'Sprite' set all their fruit over a relatively short period, so many are great for canning and freezing. They don't grow much after flowering starts and tend to be more compact - better for small spaces and pots. Indeterminate tomatoes flower and fruit over a long season, and plants keep growing larger until cool weather shuts them down. They need room to sprawl and most likely will require sturdy stakes.

Which tomatoes are for which purposes?
Big tomatoes make good slicers; cherry tomatoes are usually used in salads; tomatoes that are good for paste have less water and more pectin, resulting in a smoother paste, and they can also be eaten fresh. Canning tomatoes need high acid to help prevent botulism.

Why are some tomato varieties tagged "VFFNTA"?
Those have been bred to resist verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus, and alternaria leaf spot (early blight) - all diseases or pests that can be devastating in other plants.

Do tomatoes need pollination?
Tomatoes pollinate themselves when wind or insects shake the flowers (the latter is called buzz pollination). If you're growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, give flowering stems a shake whenever you walk past to increase fruit set.

How long does it take from planting to fruit?
Usually about three months, but sometimes faster with short-season varieties. Whatever the variety, fruit always takes longer to ripen (as much as 50 percent longer) in cool-summer climates.

Can tomatoes self-sow?
Definitely. But remember that only heirloom or other open-pollinated tomatoes produce offspring that are like the parents. Hybrids do not.

Should you prune tomatoes?
In cool-summer climates, where tomatoes often don't get enough heat for the fruit to ripen, you can prune plants to let the sun in. Pinch out suckers that sprout from the crotches between the main stems and side branches. On plants trained to stakes, keep one vertical leader. For caged plants, train three or four vertical leaders along the sides of the cage and thin out congested growth to improve air circulation.In warm-summer climates, tomatoes should be pruned only minimally to prevent sunburned fruit. Be sure to keep enough leaves to shade the fruit.

When is it time to pick?
Pick after fruit colors fully. In fall, when night temperatures drop below 55°, pick any tomatoes with some color and ripen them indoors on a windowsill (dark green fruit never ripens)

JUMPSTART YOUR TOMATOES

In most of the West, set out seedlings in spring after danger of frost has passed. (In the low desert, plant after Labor Day ? spring planting doesn't work there because tomatoes won't set fruit above about 90?.) Choose a spot with full sun (at least eight hours a day is best), fertilize at planting and again in about two weeks, water sparingly but don't let plants wilt, and you'll get plenty of fruit two or three months later.

Beyond these basics, it always helps to dig 3 or 4 inches of compost into the top foot of soil before planting. The extra organic matter holds air, water, and nutrients better than most unamended soils, which promotes strong growth.

Tomato seedlings can be planted extra-deep to encourage stronger root growth. Bury plants so that the main stem is 2 or 3 inches belowground, and it will develop additional roots. Stake plants to keep ripening tomatoes off the ground, where they're prone to rot.

All the fussing done by tomato aficionado - pruning, elaborate tying and trellising, spraying with hormones - is designed to get sweeter or more fruit, extend the season, or deal with regional cultural challenges. You may eventually experiment with these things, but only after you've learned to love the scent of tomato leaves on your fingers and sampled a few different homegrown varieties.

Help with your garden

2009-04-30T19:09:00.000-07:00

Great information on maintaining a beautiful lawn and or garden. Tips on fertilizers and keeping healthy plants .

gardening ideas for the apartment or high rise

2009-04-30T19:04:00.000-07:00

If you live in a high-rise unit or flat with no yard, but would still like to get close to Mother Nature, container gardening is the way to go.
Container gardens can create a natural sanctuary in a busy city street, along rooftops or on balconies.

Pots that enhance your Patio or Deck

You can accentuate the welcoming look of a deck or patio with colorful pots of annuals, or fill window boxes with beautiful shrub roses, azaleas, camellias, or any number of small perennials or annuals.

Whether you arrange your pots in a group for massed effect or highlight a smaller space with a single specimen, you’ll be delighted with this simple way to create a garden.

A friendly driveway

If you have steps leading up to your front door, an attractive pot plant on each one will delight your visitors. Indoors, pots of plants or flowers help to create a cozy and welcoming atmosphere.

A glassed in patio or veranda makes an ideal place to grow those hot-house type flowers that seem to wither and die in the garden, while a window that lets light filter in through a blind is the ideal place for African violets.

Creative Containers

Experiment with creative containers. You might have an old porcelain bowl or copper urn you can use, or perhaps you’d rather make something really modern with timber or tiles. If you decide to buy your containers ready-made, terracotta pots look wonderful, but tend to absorb water.

You don’t want your plants to dry out, so paint the interior of these pots with a special sealer available from hardware stores. The other disadvantage of terracotta is its weight, but using a strong pot-stand with wheels can solve this dilemma.

Painting your pots

Cheaper plastic pots can also be painted on the outside with water-based paints for good effect. When you are purchasing pots, don’t forget to buy matching saucers to catch the drips. This will save cement floors getting stained, or timber floors rotting.

If you don’t plan on painting these pots, choose the lighter colored ones. Black absorbs heat that makes the roots too hot in the summer months. Painting cheap pots extends their life admirably. Don’t forget to also paint the top, inside part down to about 5 cm or the level that the soil will come to.

Always use a good quality potting mix in your containers. This will ensure the best performance possible from your plants. Read the label of the potting mix and if it does not contain fertilizer, add whichever type suits your plants. If you water regularly with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer, your plants will thrive.

Growing the perfect pepper

2009-04-30T19:02:00.000-07:00

Chile peppers, which is another name for hot peppers, are a versatile vegetable, which is eaten in numerous ways from raw to stuffed to pickled or added to other dishes like salsa.

In fact, many varieties of hot peppers, such as cayenne pepper are dried, ground, and sold as spices. Sprays made of ground hot pepper are also used on other garden plants to combat insect infestation.

Hot Peppers in Science - How Hotness is Measured

When growing hot peppers, the first thing to understand is the Scoville unit. A chemist for Parke-Davis, Wilbur Scoville developed the Scoville Unit in 1912.

Scoville Units measure the heat of hot peppers in multiples of 100. The friendly bell pepper begins the scale at zero Scoville Units with the fiery habanera tipping the scale at over 300,000 Scoville Units. Knowing where different varieties of peppers register on the Scoville scale will help you choose those that are most palatable for you.

So How about Growing them

There are many tips on growing hot peppers that will help your pepper plants produce a good harvest. Seeds are slower to germinate than some other vegetables, so when growing hot peppers, patience is a virtue that you will need!

Patience my friend, patience - how to start them

Hot peppers are a tropical plant and as such like very warm weather.

When growing hot peppers from seed, sow the seeds indoors in a seed tray about ?-inch deep, about eight weeks before you anticipate the final frost in your area. Seedlings need a moist, but not wet, environment to thrive.

Do not start hot pepper seeds in peat pots, which tend to absorb moisture your seedlings need. On the other hand, covered seed trays will result in a too moist environment.

Hot peppers grow into small bushes and need good air circulation, well-drained soil, and plenty of sun.

Soil and the Hot Pepper

Soil temperatures for growing hot peppers should be kept at around 80degrees Fahrenheit (17degrees Centigrade) from first planting to harvest. Because of these care considerations, you may find growing hot peppers in a container is a simpler way to produce a healthy pepper plant.

Container growing hot peppers will also add a touch of flair to your deck, porch, or patio.

Because they contain oils on their skins, it is best to wear gloves when growing or handling hot peppers. Be very careful not to touch your eyes, nose, or even mouth when handling hot peppers. Their oils can seriously irritate skin and mucous membranes,

While all these caveats may sound like growing hot peppers is troublesome, you? ll find that they are well worth the extra care they need! Growing hot peppers adds beautiful color to your garden spot and variety to your menus at harvest time.

Growing a great vegetable garden, or new garden

2009-04-30T18:58:00.000-07:00

If you are planning a new garden this year, then I have some great gardening tips. Your new garden doesn't have to be as big as a farmers garden to enjoy some great vegetables that can be great for canning or just sharing with friends and family.
Here are some starting tips for your new garden. The first thing you need to do is find a good garden supply where you can get all the materials you may need for your new garden. Finding a good gardening supply and gardening equipment is essential to a new garden. Along with a little hard work of course.
That being said, lets get started. The rest of the article is below the links.
Are my tomato plants dying Is my cantaloupe dying
Slugs and snails in my garden Grasshoppers in my garden
Common garden disease and pests Grow the perfect tomato
Grow the perfect pepper Plan the perfect vegetable garden
A history of herbs Improve the soil in my yard
Create a water efficient garden Build a rain barrel for your garden
Garden ideas for your apartment General help with your garden
Fertilizers, nutrients and nitrogen Weed and pest control
In general, vegetables require better soil and more water than flowers and shrubs. Vegetables that are not grown in good conditions are often not very tasty or get a watery or bitter taste.
That said we can set up a few vegetable gardening tips, there is absolutely nothing like the taste of well-grown vegetables from your own garden. Home-grown tomatoes, carrots, cucumber and lettuce have a flavor you didn't even know existed when compared with store bought produce.
And you have complete control over what and how you grow. This is where the composting process we discussed earlier becomes of great value. Compost as biological fertilizer improves the soil structure and the overall quality.

Rotate your Crops

Different vegetables have different needs and if grown in the same spot over several seasons will reduce the soil to the point that it will grow nothing. The thing to do is rotate your crops every season. Done correctly, each crop will fertilize the soil for the new type of plant.

When rotating, you should follow a root vegetable of potatoes or carrots with a legume such as peas or beans, then go for the cruciferous family of cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts etc. and from there to tomatoes or corn.

Don't plant tomatoes twice in the same path
Tomatoes especially should not be planted in the same patch twice as nematodes may result. These can be seen as bulbous growths on the roots of the tomato plant. Blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency in tomatoes characterized by a black circle on the blossom end of the tomato. It can be caused by too much dry weather, as calcium in the ground is water-soluble and cannot be absorbed by the plant unless there is adequate water.

Most vegetables require full sun to grow well, but peas, onions, beetroot, spinach and lettuce are five vegetables that will tolerate a little shade. Since they are gross feeders, vegetables don't do well under trees as tree roots use up many of the soils nutrients. However, herbs and flowers can grow happily along with your vegetables and indeed, often protect the other plants from bug attack or disease. This is called companion planting and must be looked into carefully, as certain vegetables do better with specific types of herbs or flowers.

What vegetables do we grow from seed and we do we go for Seedlings

When growing vegetables, they can be planted as seeds or purchased as seedlings.
How to choose
Plants that have large seeds or whose seeds germinate quickly do well grown from seed. These are peas, beans, broad beans, potatoes, corn, spinach and others. Lettuce, carrot and radishes germinate quickly so that even though the seed is fine, they grow easily from seed.

Tomatoes and lettuce are quite easy to grow from seed, yet are frequently purchased as seedlings. Always make sure your seedlings are a deep green and not leggy, wilted or yellow.

We hope to have improved your gardening experience with these vegetable gardening tips, stay tuned, more is to follow. secretively underground until harvest.
In closing on this chapter, let me stress how important it is to find a good garden supply and garden tools and equipment. This will take some of the hardwork out of maintaining your new garden

Designing the perfect flower garden

2009-04-30T18:54:00.000-07:00

Flower Garden design by mother nature itself is unmatched. Just walk around in a April and May flower field and you know what I mean. Purples, whites, yellows, blues and a rainbow of color against a verdant background. There's no visible flower garden design to Mother Nature's fields and meadows. Colors that we normally consider "clashing" seem to meld together, painting a living work of art.

Seasons Change

As seasons change and nature finishes with one color, she frequently picks up another. Even greens are abundantly different, from pale pastels of new spring foliage to the dark steadfastness that evergreens display in winter.

All to often we have abundant spring bloomers in our flower garden, why not design with spring, summer and autumn in mind

Like nature, you can paint with flowers, but you don't need a vast field to grow them.

You can have an abundance of flowers in very little space. However, since human gardeners don't have all of Mother Nature's resources (or her experience!) planting a garden is easier when you plan the design, layout, and color scheme before you buy plants. As well as helping you create a mental picture of your garden, a good design saves you from the dilemma of wondering where to put that "just one more" plant!

Space Considerations

If space is a consideration, you may want to enclose your house with flowers, planting vines to hide bare walls, bordering terraces, and designing beds around porches and decks.

However, before you begin deciding on plants, consider the shape of your lot, the condition of your soil, exposures, slopes, your existing plants and trees. Even your neighbors trees are significant in planning what plants will thrive in your flower garden.

Determine your Focal Point

Begin planning your garden around a focal point. Will it be your house, a favorite cultivars, color, or will you add a garden feature like a bench, arbor, gate, or statue? Even a picturesque fence or garden wall can be the focal point of your flower garden. Plant taller annuals and perennials towards the back of your garden when your focal point is a stationary backdrop.

When it's in the center, use it to add vertical interest to your plantings as well as a place to capture the eye of your visitors. When planting a large area or several small ones, do use repetition. Repeating plants, colors, and textures adds unity to your flower garden.

Spacing your plants

Spacing plants according to the spread they'll occupy at maturity prevents crowding of larger plants and add impact to small blossomers. Whatever the shape of your garden, do plant your cultivars in groups.

Remember that field of wild flowers? Although a variety of colors may be displayed in the same field, what typically first catches our eye is a sudden burst of a single color.

Now that is what I call flower garden design

How do I choose a deciduous shrub

2009-04-29T19:09:00.001-07:00

Deciduous shrubs, those that lose their leaves in fall, give seasonal color and texture changes to the landscape. The flowers, foliage, fruit and bark provide color and landscape interest. A properly selected group of shrubs gives interest to the landscape throughout the year.

Deciduous shrubs usually tolerate difficult growing conditions better than most other ornamentals. Many grow rapidly and may require some yearly pruning. Pruning is done just after the shrub flowers, regardless of the time of year. Cutting older, heavier shoots back to ground level is the accepted practice. One-third to one-fourth of the stems should be removed each year.

Deciduous shrubs have few serious insect or disease problems. Aphids or mites are occasional problems but they are easily controlled.

Some deciduous shrubs are sold bare root. A few must be balled and burlapped or container-grown to be successfully transplanted. Bare-root plants are usually planted in the spring before growth starts. Balled and burlapped and container shrubs may be planted throughout the spring and fall.

Descriptions of some popular deciduous shrubs

So many deciduous shrubs can be grown in Missouri that describing all of them is impractical. The species and varieties described in the following section are hardy statewide and most commonly grown. Those not reliably hardy throughout the state have been appropriately noted. The expected maximum height of each shrub is listed after the common name.

Dwarf flowering almond (Prunus glandulosa)

3 feet

Flowering almond is a small, delicate shrub. Its branches are covered with small flowers in early May. The flowers may be pink or white, single or double. This shrub is a fine specimen plant and makes a nice accent plant for a foundation planting.

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergi)

5 feet

Barberry is a rugged plant that adapts to many situations. It has been widely used as a hedge or barrier plant because of its thorny twigs. It is an easy plant to prune and can be clipped into tight hedges.

The small yellow flowers are not especially showy, but the bright red berries are attractive in the fall. Barberry leases normally have a good red fall color. The variety atropurpurea has red foliage throughout the growing season. 'Crimson Pygmy', a dwarf red-leaved variety, is also available.

Mentor barberry (Berberis x mentorensis)

5 feet

An extremely hardy plant, Mentor barberry will adapt to almost any soil. It is a semievergreen shrub that will retain its leaves until midwinter. It has been planted extensively for hedges because of its dense, upright habit of growth and its thorny branches. Little maintenance is required to keep it looking attractive.

Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)

8 feet

Bayberry is grown for its aromatic, semievergreen leaves and its waxy gray berries. Because of their fragrance, the berries are frequently used in making candles. The sexes of bayberry are usually separate so both male and female plants need to be planted together to ensure production of the ornamental berries.

Bayberry grows vigorously on good soil but will generally fruit more heavily when grown on poor soil. It is a fine ornamental, for its foliage as well as its fruit.

Beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica)

4 feet

A small shrub with fairly inconspicuous flowers but with uniquely colored purple fruit, borne on the tips of the current season's growth and remaining on the plant a few weeks after the leaves have fallen. Heavy pruning in early spring will force vigorous growth that results in profuse fruit production. Unfortunately, this shrub has little ornamental value except the colorful berries.

Beauty-bush (Kolkwitzia amabilis)

10 feet

A tall, vigorous, upright shrub with an arching branching habit. In May the plant is covered with pink flowers. The brown bristly seeds of Beauty-bush are also interesting. This shrub is easy to grow and requires little attention if it is given enough room to develop.

Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)

8 feet

A dependable shrub on almost any soil. Small white to reddish flowers in late May. Chokeberry is planted primarily for the bright red berries that are produced in late summer. There is also a black and purple fruited species available but they are not as attractive as the red one.

Purpleleaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena)

4 feet

A small shrub valued for its purple foliage, which persists throughout the growing season. It produces small, white flowers in May and small, colorful cherries in fall.

Spreading cotoneaster (Cotoneaster divaricata)

4 feet

An interesting plant with upright growth habit and arching spreading branches. Red berries cover the branches during early fall, adding considerable interest to the landscape.

Cotoneaster is susceptible to fire blight disease and is occasionally attacked by spider mites.

Rock spray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis)

3 feet

One of the smaller cotoneasters, Rock spray has semi-evergreen foliage persisting into fall and gradually taking on a reddish color. It also has attractive red berries in the fall. Because of its flat, horizontal growth habit, it is often used in rock gardens or as a groundcover in small areas. Fire blight and spider mites are occasional problems.

Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

10 feet

Although crape myrtle is a very large shrub in the south, it seldom grows taller than 10 feet in Missouri. The plant is grown for its large, showy flowers produced in late summer. Numerous flower colors ranging from white through pink to a dark red are available.

Crape myrtle is somewhat difficult to transplant and so must have a ball of earth around the roots. It is not hardy in the northern parts of Missouri. Some winter protection is needed in all but the southernmost parts of the state. Severely injured plants may fail to bloom even though new growth re-establishes the plant.

Slender deutzia (Deutzia graeilis)

3 feet

Deutzias are a group of shrubs grown for the showy white or pinkish flowers produced in May. Slender deutzia is best because of its small size. It has a slender, graceful arching, growth habit.

Redosier dogwood (stolonifera)

6 feet

Redosier is a shrub-type dogwood adaptable to most soils but does best in moist situations. It spreads by underground stems and increases in diameter as new stems arise from the ground. It does not have interesting flowers or fruit but is grown primarily because of its colorful stems. Both red and yellow stemmed varieties are available.

A dwarf type, C. kelseyi, seldom grows over 2 feet high and is useful as a groundcover in large areas.

Winged euonymus (Euonymus alata)

8 feet

Winged euonymus, a medium-sized shrub, has been used as a hedge because its neat, uniform appearance requires little or no pruning. Twigs of this shrub have corky ridges and are especially interesting in winter after catching a soft snow. This plant has excellent scarlet fall color each year. The compact variety, E. alata compacta, grows to only 4 feet tall and is more commonly planted than the standard variety. Euonymus must be transplanted with earth around their roots. Once established, they require little care.

Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia)

6 feet

The profuse yellow flowers of forsythia are considered by many people to be the first sure sign of spring. They are easily grown on almost any soil but prefer full sun. There are many varieties of forsythia available, including some dwarf forms.

Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maakii)

15 feet

Amur honeysuckle is the largest and fastest growing of all the honeysuckles. Fragrant white flowers are produced in late May. Bright red berries remain on the plant from September to November. Amur honeysuckle holds its leaves late in the fall and it is not unusual for the plant to have green leaves and red berries at Thanksgiving time. Amur honeysuckle makes a fast-growing screen but it needs plenty of room to develop.

Fragrant honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)

6 feet

This honeysuckle has stiff, leathery, almost evergreen foliage. The white fragrant flowers are borne early in spring. The red berries are produced in late spring but are quickly eaten by birds or covered by the current season's growth of foliage. Honeysuckle is an easily grown plant requiring no special soil or other conditions. It is often used as a hedge. Little pruning is required to maintain an attractive hedge form.

Tatarian honeysuckle (Lonicera tartarica)

9 feet

An easily grown shrub with few insect or disease problems. The pink to white flowers are borne in late May. Red berries are attractive in July and August. Honeysuckle is easily transplanted and will grow on almost any soil type.

There are many improved varieties of this plant, but most of them are not widely available. Honeysuckle is useful in a shrub border or as a screening plant.

Hydrangea, Hills of snow (Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora)

3 feet

This hydrangea is a small shrub that produces large white flower clusters almost 6 inches in diameter. It is frequently killed back to the ground in winter, but it grows rapidly, and this does not interfere with the flowers.

Hydrangea does not require any special soil but would prefer to have a sunny location for best flower production.

Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

9 feet

Lilac is one of the best known and most commonly planted of all the flowering shrubs. It is grown primarily for its late spring flowers. Of the hundreds of varieties of lilacs that have been named, the so-called French hybrids are among the most popular. They are dense, upright-growing shrubs that can be grown almost anywhere. Lilac flowers range in color from white to pink to lilac to bluish to purple. Both single and double flowered forms are commonly available. The flowers of most varieties are very fragrant.

Proper pruning is necessary to keep the plants attractive and to promote heavy flower production. After the plant becomes established, about one-third of the old stems should be removed each year. Older lilac stems may be attacked by borers. Proper pruning helps to minimize this problem.

Persian lilac (Synnga xpersila)

4 feet

Persian lilac is smaller overall than common lilac. When properly grown, its branches are often covered with flowers. It flowers at about the same time as common lilac.

Mockorange (Philadelphus spp.)

7 feet

Mockorange is a vigorous, upright shrub grown primarily for the white flowers, which are borne in late spring. There are many varieties of mockorange from which to choose. Some varieties produce very fragrant flowers while others are not fragrant. Both single- and double-flowered varieties are available and flower size varies from 1/2 inch in diameter to almost 2-1/2 inches. Some varieties never get over 4 feet in height while others may grow to 12 feet.

Mockoranges have no serious insect or disease problems. Removal of a few stems from the base each year is all that is required to keep the plants vigorous and free flowering. Unfortunately, they have little ornamental value other than their flowers.

Privet (Ligustrum spp.)

8 feet

Privets are automatically considered hedge plants because they have been so widely grown for this purpose. Unsheared specimens produce pyramidal clusters of small white flowers followed by similar clusters of black berries. Fruit remains on the plant most of the winter and provides considerable food for birds.

Privets are vigorous plants that will adapt to most types of soil under most conditions. There are several varieties of privet available. They range from 4 to 12 feet in height. Some of the more popular varieties are:

Amur
one of the hardiest varieties.
Regel
a low variety with almost horizontal branches.
Golden Vicary
has bright yellow foliage throughout the growing season.

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)

20 feet

A large shrub or small tree planted for its interesting foliage. There are many varieties available but the ones with red leaves and those with finely cut foliage are the most popular. Japanese maple can be grown over most of Missouri, but even the hardiest varieties need some protection in the northern half of the state.

A rich, well-drained soil high in organic matter is needed for best growth. Japanese maple will not grow on poorly drained or dry soils. Although some varieties grow 20 feet tall most of the varieties commonly grown as ornamentals will not get more than 10 feet tall. Most of the varieties are very slow growing.

Pussy willow (Salix spp.)

20 feet

Pussy willow is grown solely for its interesting and attractive catkins (flowers). The sexes in willow are separate, with the male having the large, gray, fluffy catkins with the bright yellow stamens. The female flower is not nearly as attractive.

The catkins on pussy willow appear in very early spring. It is an easily transplanted, vigorous shrub. However, it has many problems and needs to be kept vigorously growing to look attractive. Pussy willow has been overplanted in many areas.

Flowering quince (Chaenomeles lagenaria)

6 feet

Quince shrubs usually have deep red flowers. However, new varieties with white, pink and various shades of red flower colors are now available. Lustrous green foliage appears soon after the flowers have opened. The large yellow-green applelike fruits are not particularly attractive, but can be used to make jellies. The Japanese quince (C. japonica), a smaller plant only 3 feet high, is similar to flowering quince.

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

12 feet

A large shrub that flowers in August, at a time when few other shrubs are in bloom. Flowers may be single or double and range in color from white to pink to red to blue and with all variations in between. Unless the older portions of the plant are pruned out regularly, the flowers will become smaller.

If handled properly, the plant is bushy enough to be used as a hedge or screen.

Purple smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria purpureus)

15 feet

The purplish plumose fruiting panicles of smoke bush are attractive for several weeks in summer. The foliage is a purplish-green throughout the growing season. This shrub is often used as an accent point in the landscape because of the colorful foliage and also the showy fruiting panicles. The yellow to orange autumn color is also attractive. Smoke bush will grow in any soil and any location in the garden. Insects and disease are of little concern.

Spirea (Spirea spp.)

5 feet

Spireas are as easy to grow as any group of flowering shrubs. They adapt to a wide range of soil types. A good deal of sunshine is required for flowering but they will grow in moderate shade. Most spireas have white flowers, but there are a few with red flowers. They range in height from 1-1/2 to 7 feet. Vanhoutte spirea is the best known and still popular because of its heavy set of white flowers and graceful, arching growth habit. Bridal wreath spirea is attractive with its double white flowers, lustrous green foliage and orange fall color. Anthony waterer is the most popular small spirea, around 3 feet high. The red flowers of this species are borne in large 5- to 6-inch clusters.

There are many recently introduced spireas that grow 2 to 3 feet tall. 'Gold Flame' has golden spring foliage and pink flowers. 'Snowmound' has a moundlike form with white flowers, and 'Little Princess' forms an 18-inch mound of pink to rose-colored flowers in early summer.

Spireas are relatively free of insect or disease pests. Occasionally in spring a heavy infestation of aphids will require control.

Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhia)

15 feet

Sumacs are easily grown shrubs and do particularly well in a dry soil situation. The staghorn sumac can eventually become a rather large shrub, perhaps 35 feet high; however, it is usually grown as a multiple-stemmed plant and seldom reaches this height. This plant is interesting because there are plants with male flowers only, female flowers only or plants with both male and female flowers. Female flowers develop into bright red fruit spikelets in fall and are quite interesting. The brilliant red fall color of sumac foliage is outstanding. Staghorn sumac has fuzzy twigs from which it derived its common name. This plant can be used as a mass planting, but in modern landscapes it is often used as a specimen because of its interesting growth habit.

Sumacs have no serious insect or disease problems.

Tallhedge (Rhammus x frangula) 'Tallhedge'

12 feet

Tallhedge was developed and is used almost solely as a hedge. It will spread only about 4 feet wide and maintains its shape with little or no pruning. The foliage is a dense, dark, lustrous green. It is an excellent replacement for the often used Lombardy poplar which has so many problems.

Tallhedge is purchased and planted in spring as a bare root shrub. Larger sizes, balled and burlapped, can be special ordered from nurseries.

Viburnums (Viburnum spp.)

As a group of shrubs, viburnums have more to offer than almost any other single group of plants. In spite of their almost unlimited possibilities, they are infrequently used in most landscapes. They have beautiful spring flowers, attractive summer foliage, excellent fall color and attractive, bright-colored fruits in fall and winter. The fruits may be red, yellow, blue or black and in a given species may change color several times as they mature. In some species the flowers are quite fragrant, adding materially to their value as ornamental plants. Viburnums are usually sold balled and burlapped or in containers.

A few of the more popular Viburnum spp:

Fragrant viburnum (V. carlesi) -- a small shrub to 5 feet. The flower buds are pink, opening to white flowers that are quite fragrant. It is susceptible to a graft disease.
Arrowwood viburnum (V. dentatum) -- a large shrub, 12 to 15 feet. Will grow in sun or shade and is adaptable to any soil. Arrowwood is a rapid grower with good, glossy red fall color.
Wayfaring tree (V. Iantana) -- another large 12- to 15-foot shrub, especially good in a dry soil situation. The fall color is a good red. The fruit changes color from red to black and provides a source of food for birds in winter.
Black haw (V. prunifolium) -- a large shrub up to 15 feet in height. During May this shrub is covered with white flowers in flat clusters. This is followed with blue-black berries that are among the largest fruits in the viburnums. Black haw has an excellent shining red fall color.
Japanese snowball (V. tomentosum sterile) -- one of the best viburnums for flowers. Instead of the flower cluster being flat as in most viburnums, the snowball is a large round head of flowers covering the plants. The Japanese snowball should be used in preference to the common European snowball, which is susceptible to attack from aphids.
Maries double-file viburnum (V. tomentosum mariesi) -- a medium-size shrub up to 9 feet high. During May this plant has creamy white flowers borne in flat clusters followed by bright red berries in fall. The fall color is a dull red but not outstanding. The plant's most interesting feature is its horizontal branching habit and wide-spreading habit of growth. This interesting growth habit gives the plant added interest in the landscape.

Weigela (Weigela spp.)

Most of the weigelas available in the nursery trade are hybrids developed to produce superior flowers. The funnel shaped flowers are borne on stems three to five in a cluster. They range in color from white to deep red. The stems are usually covered with flowers for a short period of time in the spring. Weigela is easy to grow and has no serious insect or disease problems.

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

9 feet

Winterberry is grown primarily for its bright red berries that appear while the leaves are still green and remain on the plant long after the leaves have fallen. The inconspicuous flowers are borne on separate plants; some plants have all male flowers and others have all female flowers. Only female plants produce the berries, but both sexes need to be present to ensure fruit production. One male plant is enough to pollinate six to eight females. Winterberry will grow on any good garden soil.

How do i improve the soil in my yard

2009-04-29T19:06:00.000-07:00

Poor soil is a common cause for failure to grow vigorous, attractive lawns, trees and shrubs. Natural topsoils vary greatly from one location to another. Their ability to grow plants can differ from block to block, from farm to farm or from the bottom of a slope to the top.

Conserving soils

When topsoil is eroded away or removed or buried during construction, it becomes more difficult to grow plants in the remaining soil. How well we conserve and improve the soil largely determines whether plants will be vigorous or if they will survive at all.

When building a new home, the desirable topsoil should be stockpiled during construction and replaced after construction is completed.

The lot grade or slope is also important in soil conservation. Whenever possible, provide good surface drainage without creating steep slopes, depressed areas or large level areas. The average lot should be raised at least 6 inches at the center or around the buildings. Soil types that tend to hold water need more slope than those that dry quickly after rains. Soil improvement should be made after grading is completed.

Improving soils

Lawn and gardens
The lawn and gardens will be in place for many years. While a garden may be fertilized later, the lawn becomes difficult and often impractical to dig up after it is established. Therefore, it is important to get the soil well prepared before planting.

Dark color and crumbly texture may indicate good soil but are not a guarantee that the soil contains all the necessary nutrients. Have a soil test run before the soil is prepared so that fertilizer deficiencies may be corrected as well as pH. After the soil test results have been returned, work any recommended materials into the upper 6 inches of soil.

Organic matter is very important to successful plant growth. At least 2 percent organic matter should be present for growing lawn grasses. Other garden plants will thrive in a soil with about 5 percent organic matter. To add this organic matter spread 1 to 3 inches of peat, compost or well-rotted manure over the soil when other nutrients are added. All these should then be worked to a depth of about 6 inches into the existing soil.

Surface applications of organic matter do not provide the soil aeration, moisture regulation and deep root penetration that is possible when organic matter is mixed into the soil.

In addition to incorporation in the soil, a mulch of organic matter is beneficial for many flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs. Top-dressing of lawns may be done with good topsoil or topsoil-organic material combinations to smooth out irregular areas in the lawn or help decay thatch. Top-dressing does not generally improve the texture or performance of tight, poorly drained soils unless it is done in combination with core aerification.

Trees and shrubs

Selection
Select trees and shrubs that are adapted to soil conditions difficult to change. Know whether a plant requires well-drained soil, is drought tolerant, or water loving.
If the proper plants are chosen for the location, soil conditioning will help improve their transplant survival, hasten resumption of normal growth and increase their lifelong vigor.
Planting
When planting trees and shrubs, always dig generous planting holes shallow and wide. The holes should be at least twice the width of the root ball or container in which the plant is growing. Do not dig the hole any deeper than the root ball of the tree or shrub to be planted. Soil loosened below the planting ball will settle over time, creating a planting depression that will accumulate excess water. In heavy clay soils, it is preferable to plant trees and shrubs a few inches above the grade of the surrounding soil. In extreme cases, bermed plantings that permit root development above existing compacted soil may be preferable. See Figure 1.
While surface drainage is easy to observe, internal drainage of soil is often not known. Internal drainage can be checked quite easily. Dig planting holes in advance, and fill them with water. If all the water drains out in the first 18 to 24 hours, drainage is satisfactory. If the water stays for two days or longer, select water-tolerant plants or plant in a raised bed or berm. Placing gravel at the bottom of the planting hole will not improve the internal drainage.
Amending the soil used to backfill planting holes provides questionable benefits. If any soil amendment is done in the planting hole, provide for a gradual transition of soil types (textures). If the backfill soil is drastically different from the existing soil, roots will not readily penetrate the soil around the planting hole. Strong soil textural differences also affect soil water movement. If the container growing mix is high in peat and surrounding soil is clay, water will tend to move out of the root ball. Excessively wet root zones may result when the tree or shrub's root ball is high in clay content and backfill soil contains a high level of organic matter. See Figure 2.

Figure 2
Effects on water movement when transplanting into clay soil.

When the root ball is also composed of clay soil, water tends to move into the clay and saturate the root ball.
When the root ball is composed of a light mix, such as peat, water tends to move away from the root ball. (See arrows.)

A small amount of organic matter added to the backfill soil is generally beneficial. Incorporate most of the organic matter into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil in a large area around the planting hole. Improving the soil surrounding the planting hole provides a good base for new root growth in areas where most new roots will develop.

Special soil situations

Raised beds
Where soil or drainage is a problem that can not easily or economically be corrected, raised beds can add several inches of good soil in a well drained area. Beds can be constructed of brick edging, masonry or rot-resistant timbers and filled with soil previously combined with organic matter and nutrients. Low mounds of soil without edging can add several inches of desirable soil. See Figure 3.

Figure 3
Examples of raised beds for clays and other soils of poor structure.

Soil for containers
Planters, patio wells, tubs and pots have their own soil needs. Excellent drainage is essential. Good drainage means that watering must be done frequently. All containers should have drain holes. Use a well-drained, light-weight potting mix designed for growing containerized plants. For very large containers or raised beds, mixing topsoil with a mineral material such as calcined clay or expanded shale can help maintain good trainage for many years.

Soil amendment materials

Many kinds of materials are available for soil improvement. Thorough blending of these amendments with the soil is very important. Plant roots may not cross a boundary between distinctly different types or textures of soils or soil amendment materials. Heavy top-dressing, poor mixing or other practices that cause distinct layering should be avoided.

Peat
An assortment of materials generally referred to as "peatmoss" is the most readily available material for soil conditioning. Peat in the soil creates favorable changes. It makes the soil more granular and more easily worked. It hastens the escape of excess water and, at the same time, absorbs and holds more water for plants. Peat allows more air to enter the soil, thus encouraging the growth of roots and microorganisms that help make plant nutrients more available. Most commercial peats are free of weed seeds and plant diseases. Differences between sources of peats will cause variation in acidity (pH), ability to hold water and nutrient content (Table 1).

Although peat contains some plant nutrients, it should not be considered a fertilizer. It is the long-term improvement in the soil's physical characteristics that make it valuable. Peat materials that are black and fine-textured are of little value for improving soil structure.

Manure
Results when using manure are less consistent because manure varies in nutrient value, degree of decomposition, and freedom from weed seeds and disease organisms. It contains more nutrients than peat, and its acidity is usually less. It will not last in the soil as long as peat.

In some areas barnyard manure is readily available. Although nutrients are lost in aging, thoroughly rotted, old manure is much better for plants than the fresh, strawy material. The greatest disadvantage of manure is the weed seeds that are often present. Manure with a high content of bedding materials may rob more nitrogen from the soil than it provides.

Composted or dried manure is more desirable since weed seeds and potential human pathogens have been killed. It is packaged for more convenient handling and often has plant nutrients added to bring it to a standard fertility level.

Fresh manure should not be used except as a light top-dressing on beds. If used in this way it should not touch any plant stems or leaves.

Processed or rotted manure may be used in fairly large quantities as a soil amendment, mulch or top-dressing. Manure that has been rotted and exposed to weather may be used more liberally than the processed, bagged, dried manure. A layer 1 to 3 inches deep may be incorporated when preparing a flower bed or lawn seedbed, while no more than 1 to 2 inches of the processed type should be used.

Poultry manure contains greater amounts of nitrogen with less litter, and therefore should be used more cautiously than other manures. When preparing flower beds and lawn seedbeds only a 1- to 2-inch layer of rotted poultry manure should be added. If processed types are used, only a 3/4- to 1-inch layer should be incorporated.

Table 1
Major characteristics of peats.

Type	pH	Water-holding capacity	Nitrogen content
Sphagnum moss peat	3.0 to 4.0	High	0.6 to 1.4
Hypnum moss peat	5.0 to 7.0	High	2.0 to 3.5
Reed-sedge peat	4.0 to 7.5	Medium	2.0 to 3.5
Decomposed peat (very fine and black)	5.0 to 7.5	Low	2.0 to 3.5

Wood products
Sawdust, wood shavings, shredded wood, pulverized bark and wood chips can be used to improve soils. In the raw or fresh state these products are low in nitrogen. When they decay, nitrogen from the surrounding soil is used and the plants become starved for nitrogen. This can be prevented by the addition of nitrogen fertilizer to the material when it is mixed with soil or composted (Table 2). For best results, wood byproducts should be composted first before being added as a soil amendment. Very coarse wood products should be used only for mulching.

Table 2
Nitrogen addition per volume to wood byproducts.

	Bushel	Cubic yard	1,000 square feet, 1 inch deep
Ammonium sulfate 21 percent nitrogen	1 cup	10 pounds	36 pounds
Ammonium nitrate 33 percent nitrogen	3/4 cup	7.5 pounds	27 pounds
Urea 45 percent nitrogen	1/2 cup	5 pounds	18 pounds

In addition to the incorporation of nitrogen into the soil, two or three more small applications of nitrogen should be made at three- to five-week intervals during the spring and summer to relieve extended nitrogen starvation when wood byproducts are used directly as a soil amendment.

Wood ash is strongly alkaline, containing mostly lime and potassium. It is a soil conditioner only in the manner of limestone and is most useful in treating strongly acid soils.

Sewage sludge
Dried sewage sludge is often available from sewage treatment plants. Its composition and nutrients vary with the source and the disposal process. Most sludge available in bulk form is lower in nutrients than manure. It is similar to peat for improving soil texture and should be used at the same rates as peat or composted manure.

Compost
Compost is very beneficial for soil improvement. It offers many of the same features as manure and may be used at the same rates. It can be used in potting soil, in the preparation of flower beds and gardens, and as a mulch for trees and shrubs. Chopped straw, leaves, grass clippings, weeds and other plant refuse may be composted.

To start the compost heap, place a 6- to 8-inch layer of plant materials in a well-ventilated bin. Moisten these materials, but do not soak them. Use a mix of dried and fresh plant refuse to achieve a good carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. If green (high nitrogen) plant materials are unavailable, use manure or commercial fertilizer as a nitrogen source. Sprinkle 1 cup of a garden fertilizer such as 6-10-4 or 12-12-12 for each 25 square feet. The layer should then be covered with 1/2 to 1 inch of soil.

Use several layers to complete the heap. Keep the heap moist but not soaking wet. Make the top of the heap flat or slightly depressed in the center so that rainfall can soak in. During warm weather the pile should be turned approximately every month, but during the winter months turning will not be necessary. It will take 4 to 12 months for the materials to decompose thoroughly, depending on the frequency with which the compost heap is turned.

Sand
The grades of sand used in construction are most readily available. This sand has little water-holding capacity and no nutrient value. Seventy-five percent or more by volume must be mixed into heavy clay soils before there is any improvement in aeration, internal drainage or texture. Adding lesser amounts of sand can compound aeration and drainage problems. Sand mixed with clay can set up into a bricklike mixture. Peat or compost should be used instead to improve heavy clay soils.

Sand applied as a top-dressing often seems to disappear into the soil, but actually remains as a surface layer. Therefore, sand should not be used alone as a top-dressing.

Limestone
Agricultural limestone is commonly used to supply calcium and to regulate soil acidity but is overlooked for its ability to improve the texture of heavy soils. If soils contain enough limestone, do not add more, because the balance of soil nutrients can be upset by the use of too much lime. For best results, use lime only as recommended based on results of a soil test.

Other agricultural byproducts
Peanut shells, tobacco stems, rice hulls, corn cobs and other fibrous agricultural byproducts are sometimes available for soil additives or mulching. Most of these materials when crushed to a fine texture with nitrogen added (Table 2) will be good soil conditioners. In their coarse state, these materials are suitable for mulching.

Meat meal, tankage, fish meal and cottonseed meal have little soil conditioning ability. However, since they contain from 6 to 10 percent nitrogen, they are useful for side-dressing many ornamental plants.

Arte broad leaved ever greens right for my lawn

2009-04-29T19:05:00.000-07:00

The most highly prized landscape plants are broad-leaved evergreens. They are the true aristocrats of our gardens. However, many of them require special attention if they are to develop into attractive long-lived plants.

Wide fluctuations in temperature, prolonged dry periods, drying winds and bright sunshine of the Midwest are not ideal conditions for most broad-leaved evergreens. Special soil preparation and a carefully selected location are usually necessary to ensure the success of these plants. However, the year-round beauty and special effect they give to the landscape makes them well worth the effort.

The broad-leaved evergreens are valued chiefly for their evergreen foliage, but many of them possess other desirable ornamental traits (Figure 1). They are generally clean plants, dropping few leaves at any one time, and they never become overgrown and weedy as some other ornamentals do. In addition, most of them are relatively free from insect and disease problems.

Broad-leaved evergreens prefer a rich, well-drained, slightly acid soil. Increasing organic matter content and improving drainage can improve an existing poor soil.

Locate broad-leaved evergreens subject to winter injury so they receive protection from the wind and afternoon sun, especially in winter. North and east sides of buildings are ideal. Wind and sun protection from fences or large plants also helps prevent injury.

Broad-leaved evergreens should be fertilized only in the spring. Summer or fall fertilization may induce late-season growth that is highly susceptible to winter injury. Winter scorch of foliage can also develop if plants dry out over winter. To prevent this, water plants in late summer and fall if rainfall has been deficient.

Size of plant is also important to winter hardiness of some species. A small, young plant may be easily killed while the same species is quite hardy when larger plants are used.

Poor culture, attacks by insects or disease, or any other factor that weakens a plant makes it more subject to winter injury.

Figure 2
USDA plant hardiness zones of Missouri.

Selecting broad-leaved evergreens

Many plants described in the following section are not hardy in all parts of the state. The zones where a plant can be most reliably grown are listed with each plant. These plant-hardiness zones correspond to the ones shown on the map in Figure 2. They are based on the average annual minimum winter temperature taken from long-term weather records. Soil type, rainfall and summer temperature also affect winter hardiness. Therefore, these zones are only a rough estimate of a plant's ability to grow in a particular area.

When broad-leaved evergreens are planted and located properly, they can add year-round interest to the landscape and provide a pleasant contrast to needle-leaved evergreens in both winter and summer.

Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora)

Zones 6 and 7

Glossy abelia may grow to a height of 5 feet in southern areas, but it is smaller when grown in colder climates. It is valued for its small pink flowers that appear from June to frost. Abelia may be used as a specimen plant or as a small hedge. The glossy foliage appears in late spring.

In winter, foliage turns purple, and the plant may lose some foliage if winter is severe. Pruning of dead twigs is often necessary in late spring after growth starts. In severe winters tops may be killed back, but new shoots develop rapidly from the base.

Azalea and rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.)

Zones 6 and 7

Figure 3
Rhododendron catawbiense, 'Nova Zembla,' is one of the hardiest evergreen rhododendrons.

The plants commonly called azaleas and those called rhododendrons belong to the botanical genus Rhododendron (Figure 3). It is the largest group of woody ornamental plants in the world. More than 2,000 species, varieties, cultivars and hybrids have been recognized. There is no clear-cut distinction between the group known as azalea and the one called rhododendron.

Special soil conditions and cultural requirements are needed to grow azaleas and rhododendrons. Because of this and the many species and cultivars available, they cannot be covered adequately here.

Wintergreen barberry (Berberris julianae

Zones 6 and 7

Wintergreen barberry, an excellent small shrub, is attractive in the garden throughout the year. The evergreen foliage is 3 inches long, narrow and spiny. The thorny twigs make it an excellent barrier and hedge plant. Small yellow flowers appear in May. Bluish black berries add interest in the fall. Wintergreen barberry is very hardy and easily grown.

Boxwood (Buxus spp.)

Zones 6 and 7

Boxwood has been a popular broad-leaved evergreen, particularly in the eastern and southern United States, where very old specimens can be found. Boxwoods make excellent specimen plants or hedges. They can be easily pruned to any desired shape. Of the available boxwood types, the Korean boxwod is most hardy and easily grown. The leaves, however, tend to lose their color in winter. In shady locations the winter discoloring is less severe. The common boxwood is suitable only for southeastern Missouri. 'Wintergreen', a selection of Korean boxwood, is a popular cultivar that holds its color well over winter. Several recently introduced hybrids between littleleaf and common boxwood, such as 'Green Mound', 'Green Gem' and 'Green Velvet', have performed well in Missouri's climate.

Spreading euonymus (Euonymus kiautshovicus)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Spreading euonymus is also known as Euonymus patens. It is evergreen in the south, but in colder areas leaves may turn brown in late winter and hang onto the plant until new leaves are produced in the spring. It grows well in full sun, but the leaves remain green longer if it gets winter shade. The fruit capsules open in the fall to reveal the bright reddish seed.

Spreading euonymus may be attacked by euonymus scale but not as readily as wintercreeper. The two cultivars of spreading euonymus most commonly grown are 'Manhattan,' a cultivar that retains good green winter color, and 'Pauli,' which is reported to retain even better green winter color.

Oregon grapeholly (Mahonia aquifolium)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Oregon grapeholly is a fairly coarse, stiff shrub that may reach 6 feet. In April the plant is covered with bright yellow flowers. In the summer, the bluish black grapelike fruits develop. The foliage is dark, lustrous and hollylike. In winter, the leaves turn a bronze-purple color. This shrub is usually semievergreen and much of the foliage does not persist throughout the winter. Protection from winter sun and wind will help it remain more attractive during the winter.

Creeping Mahonia (Mahonia repens)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Creeping Mahonia is a low-growing shrub with leaves, flowers and fruit similar to Oregon grapeholly, but growing only about 18 inches tall. It spreads by underground stolons, making it useful as a tall, low-maintenance groundcover. Like Oregon grapeholly, creeping Mahonia may suffer some dieback during severe winters, but it responds well to pruning out of the dead tips.

American holly (Ilex opaca)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

The spiny, evergreen leaves and bright, red berries of American holly are familiar to most people. American holly is native in southeastern Missouri. It is slow growing and in other areas of the state should be used as a large shrub, although it will eventually develop into a small tree.

The sexes of holly are on separate plants. Some plants produce only male flowers and others produce only female flowers. Only the female plants produce berries, but both sexes must be present to ensure fruiting. One male plant is enough to pollinate the flowers of six to eight female plants.

Acid soils high in organic matter and with good drainage are essential for growing hollies.

Chinese holly, horned holly (Ilex cornuta)

Zones 6 and 7

The Chinese holly produces large, spiny, glossy green leaves and bright red berries. It is one of the few hollies that does not require pollination to produce berries. Therefore, there is no reason to plant the male forms. Chinese holly is very popular where it can be grown, but is reliably hardy only in the warmer areas of Missouri. The most commonly grown cultivars of Chinese holly include

'Burford'
A popular cultivar with deep green glossy leaves. Leaf margins are smooth with only one leaf spine generally present at the tip. It is a heavy fruiter but is less hardy than the common Chinese holly.
'Dwarf Burford'
A smaller, slower-growing selection of Burford. Reported to be slightly hardier than the standard Burford.
'Rotunda'
A compact slow-growing form of Chinese holly. It has the typical spiny leaves of the species. It produces red fruit, but the berries are generally hidden by the dense foliage.

Japanese holly (Ilex crenata)

Zones 6 and 7

Most Japanese hollies produce small, spineless leaves and black fruit. They are popular, small, compact evergreen shrubs. Some of the most commonly grown of the many available cultivars include

'Convexa'
An excellent cultivar with dark green convex leaves and one of the hardiest forms. Frequently used as a hedge. Develops into a rounded plant 4 to 5 feet tall.
'Hetzi'
A dwarf form of 'Convexa.' Will grow 2 to 3 feet tall.
'Stokes'
A hardy type not as prone to winter burn as some other types. Grows 2 to 3 feet high.
'Helleri'
A broad, compact, globe-shaped plant. Grows about 3 feet tall and as much as 5 feet wide.

Fosters holly (Ilex x fosteri)

Zones 6 and 7

Narrow evergreen leaves and a dense branching habit makes this an excellent specimen or accent plant when sheared. It may be used unsheared in screen plantings but becomes more loose and open. It is heavily berried and does not need a male plant nearby to produce fruit.

Meserve hybrid hollies (Ilex x meserveaea)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Figure 4
'Blue Prince' holly will grow 8 to 12 feet high but can be pruned into any shape.

The Blue series of Meserve hollies, including 'Blue Girl,' 'Blue Maid,' 'Blue Princess' and 'Blue Prince' (Figure 4), is known for cold hardiness. Certain other Meserve hybrids, such as 'China Boy' and 'China Girl,' are reported to have better cold hardiness and heat tolerance than the Blue series.

Inkberry (Ilex glabra)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Figure 5
Inkberry is among the hardiest of the hollies.

The inkberry, a native black-fruited holly, is not as attractive an ornamental as the other hollies, but it is one of the most hardy of the group (Figure 5). Leaf size, shape and glossiness vary considerably. The selection 'Compacta' should be used in the landscape. Occasional pruning will keep the plant from developing loose, open growth. 'Nordic' and 'Shamrock' are dwarf selections of inkberry that work well in 3- to 5-foot-tall hedges or for massing.

Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana)

Zones 6 and 7

This slow-growing plant with spreading, arching branches and dark lustrous leaves produces fragrant, bell-shaped flowers in early spring. It needs shade for best growth and therefore is most suitable beneath large evergreens. It is related to Japanese Andromeda and requires the same growing conditions.

Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

Zones 6 and 7

The large, lustrous evergreen foliage of the southern magnolia makes it a very desirable ornamental. It develops into a large tree in southeastern Missouri, but in the St. Louis area, about its northern limit, it rarely gets over 20 feet tall. Its large, white flowers are produced abundantly in southern areas but only occasionally in colder climates.

Southern magnolia needs to be planted in a well-protected spot to survive without injury in any but the warmest parts of the state. Wind protection is essential as the large leaves are easily damaged by winter winds.

Nandina (Nandina domestica)

Zones 6 and 7

The reedlike stems with the evergreen leaves clustered at the tip give this plant an exotic bamboolike appearance. It is best known for its clusters of bright red fruit in the fall. It is a highly ornamental plant, but unfortunately it will only develop properly and fruit in the warmest parts of the state. In colder areas plants are often killed back to ground level but usually sprout from the roots in spring.

Japanese Pieris (Pieris japonica)

Zones 6 and 7

This attractive, broad-leaf evergreen may reach 5 feet but is usually smaller in our climate. The new foliage is bronze colored in spring, soon turning a lustrous medium green. The flowers, borne in late March, are a creamy white in long, drooping clusters. This broad-leaved evergreen needs protection from winter sun and wind to prevent leaf scorch and killing of the flower buds. A light, well-drained acid soil high in organic matter will produce the best plants.

Pyracantha, firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Pyracantha is a semievergreen shrub. It produces showy, small white flowers in the spring, but the clusters of bright orange berries it produces in the fall that hang on the plant until midwinter are its main attraction. Pyracantha can be grown as an individual specimen plant, as a hedge or barrier or trained flat against a wall to look like a vine. It normally grows to 6 or 7 feet tall and can spread to almost twice that width, so ample space must be given for the plant to develop. Dwarf varieties are available for smaller areas. Pyracantha is one of the few plants that seem to do best on poor soil. Good soil and high fertility produces rampant growth susceptible to disease and low in berry production.

Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum)

Zones 5, 6 and 7

Leatherleaf viburnum is a coarse-textured shrub that may eventually grow 10 to 15 feet tall and wide. Its large, wrinkled leaves persist well during cold weather. In late winter, leaves turn yellowish and drop off as new foliage emerges in spring. Leaves are up to 6 inches long. The flat clusters of white flowers are not as showy as the red to black berries that follow.

Leatherleaf viburnum prefers a well-drained soil with protection from afternoon sun, especially in winter. This shrub is often used in corner plantings or for accent in the shrub border. It is suitable for planting beneath pines or other large evergreen trees. ‘Alleghany’ and ‘Willowwood’ are hybrids made by crossing leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum) with wayfaringtree viburnum (V. lantana). These are evergreen or semievergreen in Missouri and are considered by many to be more ornamental than leatherleaf itself.

Are needled evergreens right for my landscape

2009-04-29T19:04:00.001-07:00

Needled evergreens, often known as narrow-leaved evergreens or conifers, are planted primarily because of their evergreen foliage. But the many sizes, shapes and colors available also contribute to their popularity.

Conifers range in size from prostrate plants growing only a few inches tall to large trees. Shapes include flat, groundcover types, horizontal spreaders, upright pyramidal forms, and even weeping and contorted shapes. Foliage color ranges from a gold and cream variegation to all shades of green, gray-green and blue-green.

Poorly drained soil, planting too deeply and winter drying are the most common causes of damage or death of needled evergreens. Most are killed easily by water standing at their roots. They must be planted in well-drained soil. A raised bed may be the solution for planting on excessively wet sites.

Plant an evergreen with the ball of soil an inch or two higher than it grew in the nursery. Dig the planting hole at least 1 foot wider in diameter than the soil ball. After the plant has been put in position, backfill around it with good topsoil. If good topsoil is not available, mix 25 percent peatmoss, compost or similar organic material with the existing soil to provide a suitable substitute.

Winter drying is a problem of all evergreens. The evergreen foliage may lose moisture in the winter when cold or frozen soils make it difficult for roots to replace moisture as fast as it is lost. If the summer or fall has been dry, thoroughly soak the area around the plants in late November so the plants go into winter with an adequate moisture supply to help prevent the problem. Less winter-hardy evergreens should be planted in areas protected from winter sun and wind to prevent winter damage and ensure their survival.

Evergreens are sold either balled-and-burlapped or in containers. The burlap may be left on the ball for planting. Loosen the burlap from around the trunk and tuck it under the sides of the ball. Be especially careful to remove any string or wire wrapped around the stem. Metal or plastic containers must be removed before planting.

Fertilizing at planting time may injure new roots. Do not fertilize evergreens until they have had at least one growing season to become established. Plants that have good color and are making satisfactory growth probably don't need fertilizer. Plants weakened by insects, diseases, poor drainage or infertile soil may respond to fertilizer. If fertilizer is necessary, it should be applied between mid-October and mid-March.

The conifers commonly grown in Missouri can be divided into the nine groups described in the following sections.

Pine

The pines can be easily distinguished from other evergreens because their needle-like leaves are produced in bundles of two to five needles. Pines are used for screens, windbreaks and mass plantings or are planted as specimen trees. They need full sunlight to develop properly.

Many species of pine can be grown in Missouri. However, the five species described in the following section are the ones most commonly grown as ornamentals. Four of these species grow to be large trees. The other (mugo pine) is a shrub.

White pine (Pinus strobus)

The delicate, soft, light bluish-green foliage of the white pine makes an attractive evergreen tree. It is easily recognized because it is the only commonly grown five-needled pine. White pine is easily transplanted and fast growing. Since it will become a large tree, it needs adequate room to develop properly.

On favorable sites, white pine sometimes grows too fast to retain its dense foliage. This can be avoided by pruning the tree to increase its density. However, in pruning white pine, note that needles are not produced evenly along the stem but are clustered near the tip. When the tip is cut back, some needles must be left on the remaining portion or the twig will die back to last year's growth.

White pine is sensitive to air pollution. Therefore it is not a good choice for planting in city conditions.

Austrian pine (Pinus nigra)

Austrian pine.

The long, stiff needles of Austrian pine are produced in bundles of two. They are a deep, dark green color that makes the plant excellent to use as a background for small trees with colorful flowers or ornamental fruit. Austrian pine develops into a large tree and needs adequate room for growth. It is relatively resistant to air pollutants and will grow on a wide range of soil types. However, it is susceptible to a serious fungal tip blight disease.

Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris)

Scotch pine.

Scotch pines can be recognized by their short, twisted needles that are produced in bundles of two. They are commonly grown for Christmas trees. Young scotch pines have a symmetrical pyramidal shape, but they develop an open picturesque growth habit as they mature. Mature specimens develop a reddish orange flaking bark on upper branches. Scotch pines are susceptible to a fatal diseased called pine wilt. It is also commonly affected by pine needle scale and needle blights.

Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergi)

Japanese black pine produces its stiff, dark green, 3- to 5-inch-long needles in bundles of two. Its large, grayish-white terminal buds help distinguish it from most other pines.

The popularity of Japanese black pine has increased during the past few years, primarily because of its informal growth habit. This irregular growth habit makes it a good accent or specimen plant for use in informal landscapes but does not make it well suited for mass plantings. In Japan, forests of this pine species have been susceptible to pine wilt disease.

Mugo pine (Pinus mugo)

Mugo pine.

Mugo pine is a shrub with a dense, rounded growth habit. It is an excellent small evergreen shrub. Plants of Mugo pine show a wide variation in shape and vigor. The compact types with many stems are the most desirable. Because of its variability, it is more desirable when grown as a single plant rather than in masses. Pruning may be necessary to maintain its desirable growth habit. Mugo pine is susceptible to pine needle scale.

Spruce

The needle-like foliage of the spruces is four-angled in cross section, not flat as with most conifers that produce their needles singly. Spruces can be recognized by the persistent leaf bases that remain on the twigs after the needles have fallen.

Spruces are native to cool climates and therefore are poorly adapted for growing in most of Missouri. They should be planted only on well-drained soils. Young trees are attractive with their dense foliage and symmetrical growth habit. The four spruces described in the following section are the ones most commonly available in the nursery trade.

Norway spruce (Picea abies)

Norway spruce is one of the fastest growing of all the spruces. As the tree grows older, the side branches become horizontal with a slight upturn at the tip. Secondary branches hang downward from the main branches, giving the tree a graceful appearance. The large cones (4 to 6 inches long), largest of any of the spruces, are an added attraction in years when they are produced.

Black Hills spruce (Picea glauca densata)

Black Hills spruce, a slow-growing, compact cultivar, is one of the hardiest of the spruces. Its dense green to bluish green foliage is its most ornamental character.

Dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica')

The dwarf Alberta spruce is a miniature conical shaped tree. It grows very slowly and seldom needs pruning. The bright green, dense foliage makes it attractive. Its maximum size under Missouri conditions seldom exceeds 4 to 5 feet. Alberta spruce is primarily a novelty specimen plant and seldom is used in basic landscaping. The plant is commonly affected by mites, especially when planted under eaves, where they are sheltered from rainfall.

Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens)

Colorado blue spruce.

The blue spruce is one of the strongest accent plants we have. Because of its stiff growth habit and unusual color, it stands out wherever it is planted. Placing this tree in a landscape is difficult because it is so dominant. It is best used as a single specimen for accent. A blue spruce grows slower than green types and usually commands a higher price. It is one of the most difficult conifers to grow in our soils and climate. It is susceptible to several fungal diseaes.

Fir

The flat needles of firs leave a round, flat scar when they fall from the twig. The cones of firs are borne in an erect position, while those of most other conifers hang downward. Concolor fir, described below, is the only fir commonly grown in Missouri.

Concolor or white fir (Abies concolor)

The concolor fir is similar to blue spruce in foliage color and general form of the tree. It is adapted to the northern one-third of the state. Because of its greater insect and disease resistance, it may be preferable to blue spruce. We do not generally recommend it for other regions of the state.

Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga Menziesi)

Douglas fir is not a true fir. It belongs to an entirely different genus. A Douglas fir can be most easily recognized by its long pointed buds and its unique cones that have a forked, papery bract sticking out from between the scales. The flat needles are grooved on the upper surface with a white band on either side of a prominent midrib beneath. Douglas fir is not adapted to Missouri conditions except in deep, well-drained soils.

Hemlock

Hemlock can be recognized by its short, flat needles with narrow white stripes on the underside. Its small cones are only about one-half inch long. Only one species of hemlock is commonly grown in Missouri.

Canada hemlock (Tsuga canadensis)

Hemlock.

Hemlock is one of the most graceful and beautiful of the needled evergreen trees, but it needs moist, well-drained soil to develop properly. It prefers partial shade and should be protected from the wind. It is easy to transplant but requires a good soil. Hemlock will withstand close shearing and is one of the better needled evergreens for growing as a hedge.

Chamaecyparis, false cypress

Chamaecyparis, or false cypresses, are variable evergreens. Both tree and shrub forms are available in a wide variety of foliage colors. They are native to moist climates and therefore are not well adapted to Missouri conditions.

Chamaecyparis should be planted in protected locations and in limited quantities on a trial basis rather than as extensive permanent plantings. We do not recommend them for general landscape use.

Cedrus -- the true cedars

Cedrus, or true cedars, make outstanding landscape plants where they are hardy. In Missouri, they should be planted only in protected locations, except in the southern third of the state. The needle-like evergreen foliage of true cedars usually is produced in bunches near the terminals of branches. Cones of true cedars are borne upright on the upper side of branches.

Because the hardier forms of cedrus are relatively slow growing and somewhat difficult to transplant, they are not commonly available in nurseries.

Yew

Yews are the most popular evergreens being planted in Missouri. Their flattened, needle-like leaves are the darkest green and the most ornamental of all the needled evergreen shrubs. Their fleshy red fruit, ability to grow in shade and lack of serious insect or disease pests also contribute to their popularity. Seeds and foliage are toxic to humans and livestock.

Upright yew.

The sexes are separate in yews. Male flowers are produced on one plant and the female flowers on another. Only female plants produce the attractive berries, but both sexes need to be present to ensure fruit production. One male plant is generally sufficient to pollinate six to eight female plants.

Table 1
Approximate mature height of some commonly grown cultivars of yew

Upright cultivars
Capitata	6 to 8 feet
Hicks	6 to 10 feet
Globe-shaped or rounded cultivars
Browni	4 to 6 feet
Halloran	3 to 5 feet
Spreading cultivars
Densiformis	3 to 4 feet
Wardi	4 to 6 feet

Yews will withstand almost any exposure and will grow in any reasonably good garden soil that has good drainage. They prefer a shaded or partially shaded planting site with a moist, well-drained soil. Direct sunlight and strong winds may injure the foliage in winter.

Among the yews grown as ornamentals, the English yew (Taxus baccata) is the most ornamental, but the Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is the hardiest. Most ornamental varieties grown in Missouri are forms of the intermediate yew (Taxus x media), also known as Anglojap yew, which is a hybrid of the two species mentioned above.

The many varieties of yew can be divided into three groups: upright, globe-shaped and spreading. Upright yews are usually less than half as wide as they are tall. Globe-shaped or rounded ones are about the same width as height. Spreading yews are two to three times as wide as they are tall. Some of the most commonly grown cultivars are listed in Table 1.

Arborvitae

Arborvitae has flattened, scale-like needles with rounded edges. Its seed is produced in small cones. It is an easily propagated, fast-growing plant that is commonly sold in the spring of the year at discount prices. Arborvitae can be injured seriously by late spring frosts and by winter drying. It tends to be a relatively short-lived plant.

Arborvitae.

Juniper

Junipers have sharp, pointed, scale-like foliage. Their fruit is a fleshy blue berry. The sexes are separate, and only female plants produce berries.

Junipers are among the best adapted and hence the most commonly grown evergreens in Missouri. They withstand hot, dry, poor soils better than other evergreens. Junipers need full sun for best development. None of the junipers will grow on wet, poorly drained soil or in heavy shade.

There are hundreds of varieties of juniper from which to choose; they come in all sizes and shapes. The color varies from yellow-green to green, blue-green, gray-green or silver. Because so many varieties of juniper have been grown, many of the names have become confused. For landscape purposes we can divided them into three major groups: prostrate, spreading, and upright. The varieties described here are the ones most commonly available.

The prostrate, or creeping junipers, are low-growing plants used primarily as groundcovers. They seldom grow over 18 inches high and will spread over a large area. The foliage of many prostrate junipers changes color during winter. The summer and winter foliage colors and sizes of some common prostrate juniper cultivars are given in Table 2.

Creeping juniper

Table 2
The approximate sizes and foliage colors of some common prostrate junipers

Cultivar	Height	Spread	Summer color	Winter color
Andorra	18 inches	5 to 8 feet	light green	plum
Bar Harbor	10 inches	6 to 8 feet	gray green	slate
Blue Chip	8 inches	5 to 8 feet	blue	blue
Blue Rug	6 inches	6 to 8 feet	blue	blue
Procumbens	10 inches	6 to 8 feet	blue-green	blue-green
San Jose	10 inches	6 to 7 feet	gray-green	gray-green
Sargent (green)	10 inches	6 to 7 feet	green	green
Sargent (blue)	18 inches	6 to 7 feet	blue	blue
Turquoise spreader	6 inches	6 to 8 feet	green	green

Pfitzer juniper.

Spreading junipers can be divided into two groups. The first group has a horizontal growth habit that gives the plant a flat-topped appearance. Branches on the second type have an arching pattern of growth that makes a more vase-shaped plant. The approximate sizes of some of the most commonly grown cultivars of spreading juniper are shown in Table 3. Most spreading junipers retain the same foliage color year-round.

Table 3
The approximate sizes and foliage colors of some spreading cultivars of junipers

Cultivar	Height	Spread	Foliage color
Compact Pfitzer	3 feet	6 feet	green
Blue Pfitzer	3 feet	6 feet	blue
Armstrong	4 feet	6 feet	blue-green
Hetz	8 feet	8 feet	light blue
Arkadia	2 feet	5 feet	green
Old Gold	3 feet	5 feet	yellow-green

Most upright junipers are actually grown as shrubs. Unless they are heavily sheared, they will quickly outgrow their intended use. To develop their natural beauty, they need to be planted where they have plenty of room to grow. The foliage color of most upright junipers does not change with the seasons. Colors of some of the most common cultivars are given in Table 4.

Table 4
Foliage colors of some common cultivars of upright junipers

Cultivar	Foliage color
Blue Heaven	powder blue
Burki	blue
Canaertii	blue-green
Keteleeri	green
Wichita Blue	light blue
Skyrocket	green

Many varieties of juniper are available in nurseries, and new ones are always being developed. The lists in Tables 2, 3 and 4 are just a few of the more commonly available cultivars. You will find many others; some may be adapted better to your area than the ones listed.

Home,garden and lawn maintenance

Worm Composting and what you will need

Set up organic gardening soil

How much mulch do I need for my garden

Get you plants ready for Fall, Winter

How to make your own compost for your garden or lawn

How to build a rain barrel

The proper ph for my garden soil

Starting a new garden

Rotate your Crops

Don't plant tomatoes twice in the same path

What vegetables do we grow from seed and we do we go for Seedlings

Downy Mildew

What is Dodder

damping off diseases

Damping-off

Symptoms of Damping-off:

Damping-off diseases can be prevented:

So, what do I do? Answer: all of the above, all of the time.

Damping-off diseases can be controlled:

So, what do I use? Answer: Just enough Captan as needed.

The Future of Damping Off Control:

Rose weevil or rose curculio

Identify Botrytis blight

Controlling Armyworms, Army cutworms

Armyworm

Description

Life Cycle

Habits and Damage

Threshold for Small Grains

Threshold for Corn

Migrating Armyworms

Insecticides Registered for Controlling Armyworm

Army Cutworm

Description

Habits and Damage

Scouting, Economic Thresholds, and Control

Insecticides Registered for Controlling Army Cutworm

Identify and control Anthracnose disease

Leaf Galls

What Can You Do About Galls?

Common garden diseases and pests

Identify problems with your plants

What are thrips

Slugs and snails in my garden

What are mites

Grasshoppers in my garden

Deer eating my garden

Squirrels eating my garden

Rabbits eating my garden

What are mealybugs

What are earwigs

What are aphids

what time of day should I water my garden

How to start seedlings indoors

Does neem oil work for pests

BOTRYTIS, blight and fruit rot

African Violets

The African Violet Is an Easy Start to an Indoor Garden.

Plan my own vegetable garden

Planning and planting a successful vegetable garden

Are my cataloupe dying

MY tomoto plants are dying

How do I repair a hole in my sheet rock, dry wall

Install my own ceiling fan, the easy way

A history of herbs

Growing perfect corn

How to grow a perfect tomato

Your perfect tomato

Help with your garden

gardening ideas for the apartment or high rise

Growing the perfect pepper

Hot Peppers in Science - How Hotness is Measured

So How about Growing them

Soil and the Hot Pepper

Growing a great vegetable garden, or new garden

Rotate your Crops

Don't plant tomatoes twice in the same path

What vegetables do we grow from seed and we do we go for Seedlings

Designing the perfect flower garden